The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - 47-55.1 Rewiring the 54

dsraven · 12-19-2023, 10:51 AM

I have used them before. there are 2 schools of thought, or more
I am old school so bear with me.
I have done a lot of wiring repairs on highway trucks where the driver "needed" to do some wiring on the road to accomodate the funky lights he bought at the truck stop late one night
I ususally like to use a non insulated crimp connector and double wall shrink tube on any connection I do, whether inside or outside the vehicle. i will strip the required amount of insulation off the wire and push it into the connector, crimp it with a crimper that crimps with a half round jaw on one side and a lump on the other side that ensures the connector barrel is not just flattened out but is deformed well and holds the conductors properly. I always tug on the wires before I solder, if I solder, then shrink tube. try not to twist the wires before inserting into the barrel because when the wires cross each other and then they get crimped this can cause the wires to cut each other and cause a resistance in the connector. I know, there are those who will say thats bull ****. thats what I said in trade school and the instructor actuall had us students do a crimp how we normally do, then cut it apart and check the inside. the twisted ones did actually have a few broken strands.
to answer your question, I have used those connectors but find them bulky for anything more than just a couple wires repaired at the same area. I did not have any issues with them that I know of because the repaired unit did not come back for the same wiring problem at that spot so, I have to say, they work ok I guess. they are considerably more money that the standard connectors so the shop stopped buying them because we had truck loads of the regular type of connectors and also miles of shrink tube.
I think the newer style of crimp connectors that are being used by the factory are superior to the old style crimp connectors but require a more expensive crimp tool and also a bunch more parts to make the connector. they hold the wire strands well and also crimp onto the insulation part. thn they are pushed into the plastic connector and have a silicone sealing ring on the wire and the connector body. a few more tools and things to buy but a better set up overall.

12-19-2023, 10:51 AM	#2
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,876	Re: Rewiring the 54 I have used them before. there are 2 schools of thought, or more I am old school so bear with me. I have done a lot of wiring repairs on highway trucks where the driver "needed" to do some wiring on the road to accomodate the funky lights he bought at the truck stop late one night I ususally like to use a non insulated crimp connector and double wall shrink tube on any connection I do, whether inside or outside the vehicle. i will strip the required amount of insulation off the wire and push it into the connector, crimp it with a crimper that crimps with a half round jaw on one side and a lump on the other side that ensures the connector barrel is not just flattened out but is deformed well and holds the conductors properly. I always tug on the wires before I solder, if I solder, then shrink tube. try not to twist the wires before inserting into the barrel because when the wires cross each other and then they get crimped this can cause the wires to cut each other and cause a resistance in the connector. I know, there are those who will say thats bull ****. thats what I said in trade school and the instructor actuall had us students do a crimp how we normally do, then cut it apart and check the inside. the twisted ones did actually have a few broken strands. to answer your question, I have used those connectors but find them bulky for anything more than just a couple wires repaired at the same area. I did not have any issues with them that I know of because the repaired unit did not come back for the same wiring problem at that spot so, I have to say, they work ok I guess. they are considerably more money that the standard connectors so the shop stopped buying them because we had truck loads of the regular type of connectors and also miles of shrink tube. I think the newer style of crimp connectors that are being used by the factory are superior to the old style crimp connectors but require a more expensive crimp tool and also a bunch more parts to make the connector. they hold the wire strands well and also crimp onto the insulation part. thn they are pushed into the plastic connector and have a silicone sealing ring on the wire and the connector body. a few more tools and things to buy but a better set up overall.