[dsraven]

you can polish the crank yourself with some very fine paper, I use the wet and dry stuff myself, starting with something like 600 or 800 grit. I use a light lube like wd40 or the crc equivalwnt that I can't remember the number or name of. clean the journal and the oil hole so you don't pick up a stray piece of crap somewhere, then spray the paper well along with the journal. cut the paper so it is the same width as the crank journal and wrap the journal with the paper. then wrap a long fat shoelace from a work boot or a skate or a long wide strip of rag (an old t shirt works well) around it and pull first on one side then the other. work the shoelace back and forth so you get full width coverage on the journal. when done clean the area with the spray lube and then use something like 1000 or 1200 grit paper for the final. same procedure. some guys will use metal poish after this step but that is overkill and usually harder to clean up. when all done use a little tube brush to clean out all the oil passages and then clean the entire crank well with dish soap and warm water and then spray the journals to get rid of the water and so they won't immediately start to show rust, then blow the crank dry and put it a new, clean plastic bag until you're ready for it. you could have it mic'd if you wish but really you had no issues with the crank before. when you assemble the engine ensure the back sides of the bearing shells are clean as well as the engine block, lay the shells and rear mai seal in place, put some assembly lube on the bearing surfaces of the shells and lay the crank in place. do the same on the bearing cap sides, install the caps, lightly tapping them into place (don't suck them down with the bolts as that can break the cap if things aren't just right), then lube the bolt threads and install them. torque up as the manual says to do it