The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network - View Single Post - Modern Fuel Pump Module into an In-Bed Tank

jamyers · 05-14-2024, 04:41 PM

I used some 1/4 x 20 threaded rod to connect the top and bottom, shifting the clocking around a tiny bit so the fuel sending float arm would clear the interior baffles - I had already cut a slice out of the center baffle for the previous sending unit to clear.

Put some jam nuts to keep pressure on the springs, which will keep the lower section pushed against the tank floor and in place.

Dorman 800-060 fuel repair kit comes with 18" lengths of nylon fuel tube and some barb connectors. Supposedly you can just push the nylon hose into the barbs (with either some grease or heat) and they'll stay put, but I opted to get a kit with a bunch of "single ear" crimp clamps (like PEX plumbing uses) to make sure the fuel lines are on tight. So one piece of 3/8 fuel line later and it's good to go.

Lengthening the wires was easy, with some heat shrink for added fun.

Used some heavy coat hanger wire that's the closest thickness I could find to replace and lengthen the fuel level float arm, had to tinker with bending it so that full was at the top and empty was just above the bottom.

The whole thing is right at 26 inches tall at rest, but the springs on the threaded rods let it compress down to the 24 inch tank height.

Boy do I wish I'd taken a picture of the complete setup before it went into the tank...

Previously we'd cut an access panel in the top of the tank, roughly 9" x 24". Using "The Right Stuff" gasket maker meant that I had to pry the access panel off and bent it up more than I liked, so I picked up a new 1'x2' piece of aluminum diamond plate from Lowes for (iirc) $35. Used "The Right Stuff" to glue the new piece back down (after cutting the holes in it, also emptying and cleaning the inside of the tank. Used a jig saw to cut the 5 inch round hole for the top section.

Installing the new taller module was the only tricky part, had to remove the fuel float arm, put the float into the tank, put the module bottom halfway in, connect the float arm to the sensor, then insert the rest of the module.

Then remove it all in backwards order because I forgot the cork gasket between the access panel and the top.

05-14-2024, 04:41 PM	#4
jamyers Registered User Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Buffalo Gap, TX Posts: 222	Re: Modern Fuel Pump Module into an In-Bed Tank I used some 1/4 x 20 threaded rod to connect the top and bottom, shifting the clocking around a tiny bit so the fuel sending float arm would clear the interior baffles - I had already cut a slice out of the center baffle for the previous sending unit to clear. Put some jam nuts to keep pressure on the springs, which will keep the lower section pushed against the tank floor and in place. Dorman 800-060 fuel repair kit comes with 18" lengths of nylon fuel tube and some barb connectors. Supposedly you can just push the nylon hose into the barbs (with either some grease or heat) and they'll stay put, but I opted to get a kit with a bunch of "single ear" crimp clamps (like PEX plumbing uses) to make sure the fuel lines are on tight. So one piece of 3/8 fuel line later and it's good to go. Lengthening the wires was easy, with some heat shrink for added fun. Used some heavy coat hanger wire that's the closest thickness I could find to replace and lengthen the fuel level float arm, had to tinker with bending it so that full was at the top and empty was just above the bottom. The whole thing is right at 26 inches tall at rest, but the springs on the threaded rods let it compress down to the 24 inch tank height. Boy do I wish I'd taken a picture of the complete setup before it went into the tank... Previously we'd cut an access panel in the top of the tank, roughly 9" x 24". Using "The Right Stuff" gasket maker meant that I had to pry the access panel off and bent it up more than I liked, so I picked up a new 1'x2' piece of aluminum diamond plate from Lowes for (iirc) $35. Used "The Right Stuff" to glue the new piece back down (after cutting the holes in it, also emptying and cleaning the inside of the tank. Used a jig saw to cut the 5 inch round hole for the top section. Installing the new taller module was the only tricky part, had to remove the fuel float arm, put the float into the tank, put the module bottom halfway in, connect the float arm to the sensor, then insert the rest of the module. Then remove it all in backwards order because I forgot the cork gasket between the access panel and the top. Attached Images __________________ My Chevy Truck Project Build Thread '62 Ranchero - 200 I6, 3-on-the-tree, power nothing. '71 LeSabre - 455 Stage 1, power everything.