[chev-obsession]

So I ended up doing a lot of research and did trial and error stuff. I finally got it all figured out and buttoned up. This is what I did and hope it helps someone in the future.

Since I had a 2 pin regulator on the alternator there was no room to add the brown wire in. My options were to get a 4 pin alternator, swap the 2pin regulator for a 4 pin or remove the brown wire entirely. I also didn’t want to buy a new wiring harness for the truck since my harness is in good shape, so that’s why I went this route.

Before making any executive decisions, I made sure the alternator was charging WITHOUT the brown exciter wire connected to the alternator. With a volt meter, I checked the battery voltage while the engine was off, it was a little low at 12.65 volts. Started the engine, turned the lights, wipers, radio... every electrical item in the truck was on, checked again with the volt meter and indicated the battery was being charged with 13.66 volts and slowly climbing, I think it stopped around 13.8. So I knew the alternator was being told to charge and was charging the battery and keeping up. With that being said I’m now leaning towards removing the brown wire to clean things up.

With the key on, the brown wire as labeled above, would light up the test light. (Obviously) next a continuity test from the brown wire in the engine bay to the brown and white wire in the back of the ignition switch.

After removing the ignition switch harness from the back of the ignition switch, the brown wire has continuity with the brown/white wire on ignition switch side. Perfect it’s looking good at this point. I removed the packard 56 terminal on the ignition switch side and re checked continuity and with a test light. With the brown and white wire separated from the power source at ignition switch and key turned on, no power was detected at the brown/ white wire and brown exciter wire in the engine compartment.

Re crimped a new packard 56 connector onto the big brown wire for ignition switch power terminal and bend the brown/white wire around itself and heat shirked it to prevent it touching another wire by chance, then removing the brown wire (to alternator) as well as the brown wire to the brake pressure switch from the engine compartment bulkhead.

While I was in there after upgrading to a voltmeter I did the same tests on the ammeter wires and decommissioned those wires as well.

Everything seems to working correctly.

Hope this helps someone in the future and hope my post makes sense.