Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
for the rad to water pump clearance, it boils down to having enough clearance for an electric fan.
for the 3 deg down at the rear,it can be off some. the reasons are for carbed engines, yes, but a lot of those engines had an angled carm mount cast into the intake manifold to compensate for that. the 3 deg down is also for driveline angles as well. u joints work best up to 3 deg and then after that they still work but put more stress on the u joints and other parts. they will need a 1 deg variance from a dead straight line because otherwise the needle bearings don't move on the joint trunions and this causes brinnelling. https://spicerparts.com/anglemaster/measuring-angles
the engine down at 4 deg will work but ensure your pinion angle is also up 4 deg to match. a vibration will haunt you otherwise. if using a leaf spring rear suspension there is also spring wind up to consider, depending on the engine torque and the spring stiffness. this affects pinion angle under high torque so if you start out on the edge of being right it could easily wind up enough to cause a shudder under load (like a lot of lifted 4x4's get due to spring block style lifts that allow the diff to move more). google it for more info.
if you only have 1/4" clearance between your engine pulley and the steering rack fitting then you may wanna rethink it for just a bit more clearance. the engine is going to move some as it torques up under power and decelleration and can also move up and down a bit over speed bumps, pot holes etc. those things that seem to suddenly appear when driving and you have no choice but to blast through. the engine mounts can also wear and sag a bit from heat and use over time. 1/4" is really not that much clearance if you factor in any wiggle room. the rack is also rubber mounted (I think) so it can move a bit under load (like dry steering in a parking lot)
for the shift linkage you could use a bent rod idea and/or some spacers on both ends of the linkage. use some threaded rod to practice for cheap then when you get it right bend the "good" rod |
thanks DSRAVEN
That link was pretty cool. Also found these
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MEbHcEMaCk&t=536s
https://spicerparts.com/calculators/...gle-calculator
Good point on the engine/steering "flex". I did think about it - but then thought due to being welded in place (cross member which both the engine and steering are attached to) and the steering held in by four bolts probably not going to moive much. If it did move they would move together. But .. I might shim just a small bit higher .... or monitor it and go with a 90 degree "bib" line straight down to get extra clearance.
I'll remeasure the clearance for fan tomorrow and go from there and get her welded in hopefully.