Quote:
Originally Posted by steviemack
That's alot of wrap between there and the fuse block. Sorry but I don't know what a resistor wire is other than it doesn't carry 12V? You are indicating that since the original wire was a resistor but not the entire length that it would be ok to split into in prior to the the resistor portion closest to the fuse block? How do you tell where the resistor ends?
I am looking at my fuse block on the drivers side firewall next to the brake booster and I am not seeing a wire with a cloth jacketing.
The truck runs pretty darn good with this configuration but now I am curious to know how much better it would run if not getting a full 12V at the distributor BATT post. Now my wheels are spinning about spark plug gap and wire gauge. The only issue I am having is just a very slight hesitation upon acceleration off the light but I was told that the 600 CFM carb as a bit much for the 307.
I have a multimeter but not sure how to test for 12V on the wire currently being used.
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The resistor wire insulation is white, with orange and purple stripes (seriously). That resistor wire is braided, and it is not copper. It's Nichrome, I think. It lays back and forth a couple or three times in the harness to get the voltage drop for a Kettering ignition. It tees into the yellow wire on the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid.
To check, turn the key on and attach the ground probe to a good ground. The coil power wire (yellow) (disconnected from the coil) should read around 7V-9V, somewhere in that area. It will, in any event be much less than battery voltage, if it has the resistor wire intact.
Here's a wiring diagram to help-