[dsraven]

just another hint for everybody.
the lock plate is not splined to the shaft with the same splines as the steering wheel and it has a master spline, like said in the thread, and it only fits on there one way. it's a bugger to get the snap ring off even with the tools and then be careful or the shaft can slip down enough so the upper column bearings can fall out. putting the snap ring back in is a chore as well. see pic in the first post and look closely, you can see the difference in the splines for the 2 parts and may also be able to see there is a master spline for the lock plate as well.
alignment tips (from a non alignment guy, lol)
-ensure all the parts are serviceable and repair as required first
-ensure the tire size is correct
-ensure the wheel offset is correct
-ensure the ride height is correct front and rear, no sagged springs or extra loads in the box that are not normally in the box. if the operator drives around with a toolbox in the back all the time then leave it in there for the normal load. if he shows up with his quad in the back and he normally doesn't have that load then the extra weight will affect the rear ride height and rake angle so it should be removed for the alignment
-center the steering box or rack etc
-check to ensure the steering wheel is straight ahead when the box is centered
-lock the column in the centered position
-adjust the alignment to spec
-road test on normal road with proper road camber, some roads have more camber than others, especially side roads. if the operator always runs on oversloped roads he may require a tweak in the alignment specs