Quote:
Originally Posted by geezer#99
Best to keep your idle down near 700 all the time. That way you keep the idle transfer slot covered correctly (your mix screws work then) and you’re not idling on the power circuit like you are at 900 or so rpm.
If it wants to die going into gear at 700 then you need more initial.
I mentioned lifter preload because it’s possible all your problems are related to a valve or two not seating fully.
Just another thing to look at.
If you rerun the valves just ask here for guidance here first.
And leave the carb alone until you’ve optimized your timing.
After all the motto is ‘Timing first, carb second’.
And the other one is ‘99% of carb problems are actually timing problems’.
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Thanks again geezer#99, I've read a few threads on here and others regarding setting the valve / lash adjustment. This was on my list but I was saving it in hopes of not making a huge mess but I'm pretty sure my dad had an old small block stamped steel valve cover with the top center cut out for setting valves. I'll be able to reproduce if not....If anyone wants to reference a link to a proper valve setting instruction thread I'd appreciate it.
The idle does drop approx. 250-300 RPM going into gear so we'll see if I can set the idle low and readjust the timing to see what happens. I'll check the floats first just to verify they're set properly while I'm doing the timing and leave it alone beyond that.
A quick question, will the timing being off / too far advanced / not optimized clear up at higher RPMs because the advance and vacuum at those engine speeds or is it something else? Again, that's what has always baffled me, the certain specific times when this occurs.
Thanks again!