[paintman]

Ok just so were all clear as to what is going on, a little review. When I first got the brakes bled, I would say I had about an 85% good pedal with the engine off. I had a good 85% pedal from the top all the way to the bottom (full travel of pedal).

As soon as I turned the engine on, I lost ALL pedal for the first 3" of travel, and then got a good 85% pedal. I was able to drive the truck and it stopped good. It was just not comfortable not having that first 3" of feeling in the pedal. Obviously something was wrong.

It is my understanding that with a power booster as with all my other daily drivers, you should have a rock solid pedal when engine is off and you should barely be able to move it.

I tried disconnecting the booster and driving the truck, but the truck would not stop at all even though I had that 85% pedal. So for the time being I ruled out the booster as being the problem,

Now that I have pulled the truck off the road, I have found a couple leaks at the banjo fittings (worse design in the history of automotive engineering), and fixed them. I am just re-thinking my entire plumbing design and figured since the truck is up off the floor I would re-do some things.

First off I have purchased a complete new booster/MC disc/drum with a 1" bore. But now I am thinking that perhaps the running of 2 seperate lines to the drums could be my problem.

Also I have been reading that alot of people have trouble bleeding brakes with the thru frame fittings. It seems plausible to me. If you look at a thru frame fitting they basicall go from a 3/16 hole on one side to a nearly 1/2" hole all the way to the other side, and then back down to 3/16. I'm no fluid dynamics or hydraulic specialist but it seems to me it would be very hard for the MC to push the fluid in that area. I have found that Art Morrison makes a different style thru frame fitting that supposedly eliminates bleeding problems. Hmmmmm?

Also just to be clear, and as the photos clearly show, I do have residual valves in both the front and rear circuits. And yes I do have the right PSI and they are pointed in the proper direction. And, for now, I have them both mounted within 2" of the MC. I have however been reading that some guys run the rear residual valve after the proportioning valve. What difference this would make, I have know idea.

AND YES I HAVE BENCH BLED THE MC, SO MUCH SO THAT MY ARMS HURT!!!!!

AND YES I DID CHECK THE BOOSTER PIN TO MC BORE CLEARANCE. HELL I EVEN SPENT THE $35 AND BOUGHT THE TRICK LITTLE TOOL.

So thats where I am at. I'm not sure if I should try different thru frame fittings or just bite the bullet and run my rear lines the traditional way with one line feeding a "T" mounted on the rear running to both wheel cylinders.