[MARKDTN]

I'm not a big fan of moving batteries but I had to on a '66 Mustang I built. Couple of things. I would run 0 or 00 gauge for the hot. It's overkill but you do not want the cable melting and bigger cable=less resistance. I would run a short 0 or 00 ground to the frame and keep the factory grounds and also run a 1 or 0 gauge wire direct from negative to the engine block for a direct ground path for the starter. Virtually all big trucks do this. There is a difference in battery cable and welding cable. I won't jump into this rabbit hole but battery cable is stiffer than welding cable. I used cushion clamps much like the post above. If you use welding cable instead of battery cable you will need more closely spaced clamps and it will droop more. Use more protection than you possibly need in the form of grommets, edge protection, loom, clamps-whatever so that the chance of damaging the positive cable are as minimum as possible. Keep them away from exhaust components and sharp edges. Avoid crossing the hot and ground cables in routing. When I made mine, I bought battery cable and terminals on Ebay and borrowed a cheap hydraulic cable clamping tool ($41 on Amazon). I crimped the terminals on and put some shrink tube over the joints. It worked great and looked pretty good too. At least on a truck you can run the cables in the rail flanges. The Mustang did not have a frame and the cables were exposed underneath. Good luck with it.