Well, she's back on the road with brakes! Only took over a year to figure it all out.
I wish I could point to one thing that solved the problem but I think it was more like a whole host of little ones.
I think part of my problem was I was trying to double flare stainless tubing. Even though Inline Tube said you can do it with their tubing, I think thats what was causing some of my leaks. So essentiallty I made all new lines out of regular, off the shelf stuff you can get at Autozone.
I also got rid of the Wilwood prop valve with all the fancy outlet ports. I think I may have had it mounted in a way that was traping air at the pressure switch. So now I just have a simple prop valve from Speedway with a knob.
When I was fiddling around with my booster I decided to measure how far the pedal was moving the rod. Turns out the rod was only moving about 3/4" before my pedal would hit the floor, but my MC cylinder piston needed to move 1 3/8" for full travel in the bore. So I was never really getting full line pressure built up. Changed up the pedal ratio and that made a worl of difference.
I also got rid of the rear thru frame fittings and went with a conventional style flex line that drops down to a tee on the rear and feeds each drum. Just like the factory does it.
Stayed with a 1" bore MC but still curious as to what an 1 1/8 would do.
All in all I think I pumped about 10 gallons of brake fluid through the system and finally got a good pedal and my truck stops great!
Lessons learned........KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID! stay away from stainless steel lines, next time go with calipers that don't use half assed banjo fittings. And never mount your booster under the cab!
Since I had the front end apart anyways, I chucked the 2" drop spindles and went back to the standard ones. So much easier to get a jack under it now!
Eye candy..................
