So it is the bushings you are talking about!
Here is what I did:
I bought the kit from Classic Heartbeat.
Remove your seat and gas tank (I believe both need to be out).
Spray the two caged nuts of the rear bolts with ZEP 45, PB Blaster, or some other break free over the course of a few weeks. You do not want to break a bolt off. Do the same with the nuts on your front mount bolts (nuts will be underneath the frame on the front).
Remove one side's nut and rear bolt.
Take a dremel tool and carefully cut out the spot welds holding down the front bolt to the floor of the cab. Wear safety googles. If you don't have spot welds you can have a welder come in and give you spot welds so that this step wasn't a waste of time for me to type.
Not all assembly plants tack welded these bolt heads but mine did.
Block up underneath with wood and jack up that side so you can replace your old bushings with new ones. I used rubber as I read that poly bushings make for a hard ride.
Now my truck had rotated some degress to the left, which made it impossible for me to replace one side at a time. If that happens you'll have to remove one of the other side's bolts, have both sides on wheeled jacks, and use a clamp underneath the cap to rotate it around to line up the cab holes with the frame holes. I had to do this.
Put in your new bushings on that side and then do the other.
You'll need a second person to hold a wrench on the front bolts (why they were tack welded in the first place).
These bolts have a torque rating but I couldn't get my torque wrench to read properly, and Wes at Classic Heartbeat told me to "tighten until the washer is touching the bushing then go 1 more full turn."
I reused one rear bolt but replaced the other. The replacement bolt wasn't pointed like the original and I could not find the caged nut with it so I turned the bolt tip on a grinding wheel to a point and then it was easy.
Are you still awake?