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Old 05-04-2009, 02:50 PM   #14
Chuck78
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 196
Re: Power Brake Booster Adapter Bracket

Absolutely! The 60-62 uses the combo brake/clutch master, with the holes in the firewall 2.5" apart from each other for the pedal pushrods. To ditch the factory master and upgrade to a dual reservoir brake master and seperate clutch master, you basically have two options that cost $450-$500 - which include a firewall plate, booster bracket, booster, brake master, and seperate clutch master. The other type abandons the factory clutch linkage (factory puts clutch linkage over top of steering column and out the firewall to the engine side of the brake pedal rod), and adds a small Wilwood clutch master directly in front of the clutch pedal and sorta tucked behind the booster on the fender side of the brake setup.

Slepysal just posted about his setup installing the latter, the small compact remote reservoir type, but for those of us who would like to continue using the existing hole in the firewall and corresponding clutch linkage, you basically need to spend the $500 or else use a custom fabricated booster bracket and space your power booster about 4.5" off the firewall, and probably allow a notch in the booster bracket's firewall mounting flange to allow the clutch master to bolt on.

If you use the WIlwood clutch master with integral aluminum reservoir like on soba_03's new setup, the mounting holes are top and bottom, so theres minimal interference. I'm using a 1962 single reservoir brake master (for auto trans trucks) with the 1-1/8" bore, and removing the residual check valve in the master to use as a clutch master, This costs half of the Wilwood unit ($30), and I can order rebuild parts for it at any store. This factory master is the same size as the Wilwood, but the mounting Bolt pattern where it mounts to the firewall is a diagonal one. This might require a larger notch in the bracket, where the bracket flanges out 90 degrees and is flat on the firewall.
The factory master I'm talking about is the one with the rectangular reservoir, not the round ones used on some later models. The round ones were a 1" bore and also put the lines out the wrong side (into the booster if used as clutch). The A1 Cardone # 1034403 that I'm using has the line going straight out the bottom of the front.
Best bet is to use an 8" dual diaphragm booster for this, and they seem to have a 3.5" square bolt pattern. the 67-70 1 tons use a smaller dual diaphragm, but lots of aftermarket hot rod stuff is available, like the one I plan to get from Pirate Jack's.

Here's some pictures:





this is the other option if you want to abandon the factory clutch linkage, and block off the hole in the firewall:
[img]http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/BOOSTER/BM1750.JPG


You can see the dimensions of the Wilwood unit on their website.
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Chuck in Ohio
*1962 GMC 1000 Panel Truck - 305D/Saginaw 4sp soon to be: 351C V6 + AX15 5sp OD trans, & 73-87/91 disc brake front end
*1988 Suzuki Samurai 4x4 project, VW 1.9L mTDI, Toyota V6 LandCruiser drivetrain, full floater axles, future Aqualu LWB aluminum body tub stretch/swap
*Many 1977-1979 Suzuki GS motorcycles & dirtbikes, Kawasaki KDX220, '77 Suzuki PE250, Rickman '74 VR250MX & '76 CR900 roadracer
'*2 '82 VW Rabbit Diesel pickup trucks
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