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Old 06-08-2019, 11:45 PM   #17
Zoomad75
K5Camper
 
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Pueblo, CO
Posts: 1,513
Re: Auto vs manual costs ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by kipps View Post
Just a rough idea on price. Have casually looked for a nv4500 to replace my sm465. I would be mounting it to a np208, which was standard with either the sm465 or the nv4500.

In my case, I'd need just a bell, tranny, and a hydraulic throwout. If these parts came up for less than $1200, that'd be very cheap. Shouldn't take too long of a search to find them for $1800. Of course, all of that would be used.

A cheaper option is to somehow utilize a 2wd tranny. These require switching the rear housing and the output shaft. Total parts cost for a seal kit, a new shaft, and a new housing is somewhere in the 400 dollar range. I've seen a 2wd tranny with a cracked bell listed for $400, and the guy can't seem to move it. It's just one more project that I don't want to tackle right now, so I'll pass on that one.

Another way of cheapening the cost, is to find a tranny without a bellhousing. I'm told the 621 bell can be made to fit a nv4500. supposedly, several of the bell-to-tranny bolts are installed from the inside of the bell, and are drilled and tapped into the tranny housing. This might actually be the best way, if you have easy access to a 85-87 driver's side external slave bellhousing. This would allow you to use a factory slave setup, easily clear the passenger side driveshaft, and avoid the trouble of an internal slave.
There have been a couple of guys that used a hydro 465 bell, redrilled for an nv4500 on CK5. That has been done to mixed results. The hyper-critical thing is getting the holes placed exactly in the right spot to keep the input shaft in the same centerline as the crankshaft. One guy didn't get it right and had issues with binding and having the bolts back out from the bell housing to the transmission. Major pain since he had to run the bolts from the inside of the bell back toward the transmission. Meaning to fix the loose bolts the trans had to come out as they are not accessible.

I'm taking a different route with my 4500 swap. I'm using a later version of the 4500 with the integrated slave/throwout bearing. This uses a different bell that eliminates the linkage issues with the standard squarebody hydraulic clutch parts when using the AA bell. It's going to require adapting the hydraulic line, but that is pretty doable. The hose comes out on the correct side for a square vs the early GMT400/nv4500 bell with the external slave on the passenger side.

The earlier idea noted for the divorced option is great if you got the wheelbase to handle it. For us K5 or short box K10's, we can't afford to lose rear driveshaft length at all. But you long box or Suburban guys would have the room for it.
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Rob Z.
1975 K5 350/465/205/D44/12b 4" lift on 35's- RIP
1991 K5 8.1L/NV4500/241/D44/14b FWC Camper
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