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Old 06-01-2011, 02:08 PM   #144
TheWhiteElephant
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 689
Re: 1973 K20 Build Thread

One thing I should say about Moog ball joints. There are all kinds of rumors and hype on the internet that bash the Moogs. People say they are too tight, they don't work, the F250 mechanics don't like them because they are way too tight, blah, blah, blah.

I, too, struggled a bit, but working on them for a while I finally figured things out...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=462237

I followed the GM specs and they were indeed way too tight. So I removed the spindle assembly (with the joints in place of course), reinstalled them, and nothing changed. I did it a total of 3 times. Here is what I did when things finally worked:

First, I removed the spindle assembly with the ball joints--do not remove the ball joints from the spindle.
Then I tightened the lower one to spec.
Then I fingered-tightened the spanner nut on the top one to about flush with the axle housing.
Then I tightened the upper joint nut to spec.
Then I LOOSENED the upper joint nut.
Then I tightened the spanner nut to spec.
Then I tightened the upper joint nut to spec.

I checked the spindles, and sure enough, they are perfect. I don't know what this did, but I'm telling you this worked. You can check them with a fish scale at the spindle. GM says there should be no more than 25 lbs of pull. Some say you should set them at about 15-18 lbs. Finally, you want to install the lower ball joint lock ring and the upper ball joint cotter pin, and then the grease fittings and grease 'em up.
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My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=430367

Last edited by TheWhiteElephant; 06-01-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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