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dsraven · 03-20-2023, 09:33 AM

when I installed the TCI MII on a 57 frame I set the frame up on a modified jack stands. I removed the sliding part of the stands and tacked on a new top part with a 3/4" hole in it and a 3/4" nut tacked on top of that. then I used 3/4" threaded rod screwed into that top adapter to go up to the frame. on top of the threaded rod I had welded a 3/8" bolt that would fit into a hole in the frame of the truck and be secured loosely with a nut and flat washers that would be tightened down once the frame was levelled and set at the correct rake angle desired. when done there was also a jam nut on the lower end of the 3/4 rod so nothing moved accidentally. I found this worked really well and allowed work to be done on the frame, the frame to be checked for square-corner to corner, sag, and straightness before any new stuff was added. I set the frame level side to side using a long level with a shorter digital torpedo level sitting on top of that. the long level acted as a straight edge and the short level gave the digital readout. i thought the long bubble level was usually pretty accurate but when compared to the digital level sitting on top it was easy to be out a few degreees depending on the angle that you viewed the bubble at. the digital level tells the same number no matter what angle you are looking at the screen. I highly recommend the digital method over the bubble level. the torpedo level is also easier to use for levelling the lower control arms so they can be set at the neutral position (ride height position). when levelling the cross member in the frame I recommend to install the long lower control arm bolts into their holes and leave them protruding on the front side far enough so a long level can be placed on top of the protruding part side to side. that way you get a true reading on the side to side levelling of the crossmember as the steel of the crossmember isn't necessarily true with the lower control arm pivot holes and may also not be totally flat and true. then, for a fore to aft levelling, the pivot bolts can be pulled further out of their holes and the level can be placed on that-fore to aft- to get the lower control arm pivot bolt level. this method will level the crossmember side to side and fore to aft with the frame set at the rake angle you want. the crossmember tabs that but up against the underside of the frame can be trimmed to fit tightly at this point so a good weld can be done on the front and rear side of the crossmember. you wll see what I mean when the time comes.
this is just how I did it, there are lots of ways to arrive at the same finish result. some are more accurate than others, but remember when the front end alignment guy is doing his thing it is in tenths of a degree, not eyeballing a bubble level.

03-20-2023, 09:33 AM	#34
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,847	Re: Legacy 59 when I installed the TCI MII on a 57 frame I set the frame up on a modified jack stands. I removed the sliding part of the stands and tacked on a new top part with a 3/4" hole in it and a 3/4" nut tacked on top of that. then I used 3/4" threaded rod screwed into that top adapter to go up to the frame. on top of the threaded rod I had welded a 3/8" bolt that would fit into a hole in the frame of the truck and be secured loosely with a nut and flat washers that would be tightened down once the frame was levelled and set at the correct rake angle desired. when done there was also a jam nut on the lower end of the 3/4 rod so nothing moved accidentally. I found this worked really well and allowed work to be done on the frame, the frame to be checked for square-corner to corner, sag, and straightness before any new stuff was added. I set the frame level side to side using a long level with a shorter digital torpedo level sitting on top of that. the long level acted as a straight edge and the short level gave the digital readout. i thought the long bubble level was usually pretty accurate but when compared to the digital level sitting on top it was easy to be out a few degreees depending on the angle that you viewed the bubble at. the digital level tells the same number no matter what angle you are looking at the screen. I highly recommend the digital method over the bubble level. the torpedo level is also easier to use for levelling the lower control arms so they can be set at the neutral position (ride height position). when levelling the cross member in the frame I recommend to install the long lower control arm bolts into their holes and leave them protruding on the front side far enough so a long level can be placed on top of the protruding part side to side. that way you get a true reading on the side to side levelling of the crossmember as the steel of the crossmember isn't necessarily true with the lower control arm pivot holes and may also not be totally flat and true. then, for a fore to aft levelling, the pivot bolts can be pulled further out of their holes and the level can be placed on that-fore to aft- to get the lower control arm pivot bolt level. this method will level the crossmember side to side and fore to aft with the frame set at the rake angle you want. the crossmember tabs that but up against the underside of the frame can be trimmed to fit tightly at this point so a good weld can be done on the front and rear side of the crossmember. you wll see what I mean when the time comes. this is just how I did it, there are lots of ways to arrive at the same finish result. some are more accurate than others, but remember when the front end alignment guy is doing his thing it is in tenths of a degree, not eyeballing a bubble level.