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*mrhino* · 01-09-2012, 06:38 PM

now that the boy is back from his trip. he wanted to help out in the garage again. So I started him off in taking apart the rear brakes, diff cover, remove old shocks and install some new ones, all the dirty stuff. he wears the grease like a badge of honor.

Deb even come out for a few minutes to pound on some studs

I took the old seals out and checked the bearings. Had one inner bearing was starting to turn for the worse. So I figured it would be in my best interests just to change them all. Here is some photos of rebuilding the hub, and installing the rear discs brackets, and calipers.

pop the seal out, watch your toes, the inner bearing just falls out of your foot.

turn it upside down and with a brass drift knock out the race.

then drive the front bearing and race out together from the front.

then clean Hub

with new bearing and seal everything goes back together in reverse.

drop in inner bearing, then pound in the race (upside down from the normal way) pound it far enough down that you can get the snap ring in. then pound in the inner race, drop in the bearing and then finish off with a new seal.

cleaned the rotor, and installed it on to the hubs by pounding in all the studs

cleaned the axle spindle and dressed it with some emery cloth

I degreased the new brake brackets, then painted and bolted them on with the supplied Grd 8 bolts. the brackets came from Great lakes Offroad

thew the hub and rotor on next and tightened up the lock nuts. slide in the cleaned axle and threaded in the bolts.

Next was the caliper and pads everything fell right into place. I still have to hook up the rear brake hoses but that should be to hard. I will thread them on to the existing steel line that was there from the drum brake setup and secure them with some sorta bracket.

all in all it is a very easy conversion. the majority of the time spent was in the cleaning process. I was going to weigh everything that I took off and compare the weight to the disc set up. Im sure its at least 50 lbs. I betcha I have about the same amount of money into it as it would cost just to replace both drums. not including wheel cylinder, hardware kits or shoes.

I left the diff open for now because I cant decide on weather to change rear gears from 4:10's to 3:73's The main reason I would change is to get Highway cruising rpm a little lower to save fuel, but i'm afraid the in town (stop light to stop light) fuel consumption would suffer,from trying to get this huge b!tch moving. towing might suffer as well. any thoughts on that would be appropriated.

01-09-2012, 06:38 PM	#50
mrhino Account Suspended Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: USA Posts: 1,223	Re: Build #2 Crusader! now that the boy is back from his trip. he wanted to help out in the garage again. So I started him off in taking apart the rear brakes, diff cover, remove old shocks and install some new ones, all the dirty stuff. he wears the grease like a badge of honor. Deb even come out for a few minutes to pound on some studs I took the old seals out and checked the bearings. Had one inner bearing was starting to turn for the worse. So I figured it would be in my best interests just to change them all. Here is some photos of rebuilding the hub, and installing the rear discs brackets, and calipers. pop the seal out, watch your toes, the inner bearing just falls out of your foot. turn it upside down and with a brass drift knock out the race. then drive the front bearing and race out together from the front. then clean Hub with new bearing and seal everything goes back together in reverse. drop in inner bearing, then pound in the race (upside down from the normal way) pound it far enough down that you can get the snap ring in. then pound in the inner race, drop in the bearing and then finish off with a new seal. cleaned the rotor, and installed it on to the hubs by pounding in all the studs cleaned the axle spindle and dressed it with some emery cloth I degreased the new brake brackets, then painted and bolted them on with the supplied Grd 8 bolts. the brackets came from Great lakes Offroad thew the hub and rotor on next and tightened up the lock nuts. slide in the cleaned axle and threaded in the bolts. Next was the caliper and pads everything fell right into place. I still have to hook up the rear brake hoses but that should be to hard. I will thread them on to the existing steel line that was there from the drum brake setup and secure them with some sorta bracket. all in all it is a very easy conversion. the majority of the time spent was in the cleaning process. I was going to weigh everything that I took off and compare the weight to the disc set up. Im sure its at least 50 lbs. I betcha I have about the same amount of money into it as it would cost just to replace both drums. not including wheel cylinder, hardware kits or shoes. I left the diff open for now because I cant decide on weather to change rear gears from 4:10's to 3:73's The main reason I would change is to get Highway cruising rpm a little lower to save fuel, but i'm afraid the in town (stop light to stop light) fuel consumption would suffer,from trying to get this huge b!tch moving. towing might suffer as well. any thoughts on that would be appropriated.