[Chuck78]

Thought I should add that on my 1962 GMC with the Dana 44 rear end, where the front 1/4" line tees off to the rear, my line to the rear is a 3/16" line. I wasn't sure if it was the same thread on the 3/16" line as the 1/4" inverted flare fittings (possible, didn't get to check), but I picked up a 3/16" adapter bushing in addition to the two other adapter bushings for the masters.
One was a 5/16" to 1/4" adapter, and the other one was 9/16"-18 to 1/4" I think. This fit my new remanufactured 1967 Chevy/GMC truck 1-1/8" bore drum/drum master cylinder. Got one piece of 60" line as I think I read someone else saying they needed about 51", and then I got a second piece 40" long to replace the line from the old master down to the first tee by the left front wheel. This piece will need to be longer on mine at least, since my 62 manual trans master has the lines out the bottom. The lines came double flared on both ends with the 1/4" inverted flare fittings already on.

Advanced Auto Parts and Car Quest both had drawers full of these adapters, so it makes it pretty simple. Take your master with you and bush it down to 1/4".

what I got:
*60" of 1/4" line w/two inverted flare 1/4" fittings (for new rear line)
*40" of 1/4" line w/two inverted flare 1/4" fittings (for front line, from new location on side of new master to tee at left front junction - might make do with a 30")
*1/4" inv. flare coupling or union
*1/4" plug
*5/16" tube x 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master rear line (check your master)
*9/16"-18 thread to 1/4" tube adapter bushing for master front line (check your master)

DORMAN Part # M66787 More Info {First Stop #18008616, 3912128, 3941939, 5458531, 5458905} w/Power Brakes; Bore = 1-1/8"; RWD; Bendix; Exc. 11000 Lb Rear Axle$50.79



On the bushing sizes, I believe the thread sizes in the master are 9/16"x18 and 1/2"x20, but I listed the way Advance Auto Parts has them on my receipt.

Also it should be noted that I am replacing a 1-1/8" bore master with a 1-1/8" bore master. I am adding a power booster (the old style that uses these deep bore masters same as a manual master's bore). I read in one article that said if you are switching over to power, you can get away with running one size larger master cylinder bore diameter. So I could have ran 1-1/4", but I hope to reuse this master minus the front residual valve for swapping to power discs, which would have used a 1-1/8" bore power brake master. Did I confuse you yet?

I'm also dealing with a 60-62, so I have to get rid of my stock clutch/brake combo master and install a separate clutch master in the stock location, and using a power booster and custom made booster bracket to give me the room to run the clutch master in the stock clutch master location. See my other recent thread on this topic.

I have not fit all this up yet, but based on Cheif's writeup, I think all of this is correct.