[B]Sorry man, I had to do this again, 3rd time, but I don’t want bad information out there. The downside of pictures there’s a limited time to edit them, so I deleted the previous post(s).
We got in a hurry on some things and have to re-drill some holes. The captions indicate where to drill, and in some instances where not too as well
Some basics:
Course body lines have to be right front to back. With the 4" & 2.5" drop my ride is just a pinch of dead level, so we knew dealing with nice platform from start.
We taped the moldings for an eye-test, then marked the edges to locate center. All clips are center of the moldings.
Lower side moldings: The top of the lower moldings sit .4/10" below the body line. I've heard 3/8", close enough doesn't matter. We ran with 4/10" because that's how the bodies were assembled. It's also how I found the moldings on my sample truck, which are factory.
Upper side moldings: Start with the door molding on a level door with the door lock cylinder attached. The molding sits above the door lock just enough to allow for it’s removal & install, pinch more wouldn’t hurt. From there it's mostly the eye-test. You'll see where the front of the fender molding forms well to the body. I did not take a measurement of the front fender hole because clips may vary.
Worth mentioning, lay it all out with tape before drilling any of it.
I only took pictures of "critical" areas. We spent must be 14-15 hours, it takes a while first time out. Again, this is only a guide.
The moldings aren’t even the same, original or not. I’ll bet your door moldings aren’t the same length (ha!), for example. Unless otherwise mentioned, these measurements are in ten parts to an inch.