[1964C10]

In follow up to this thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=364621 I would like to start a "wiki" on what parts are needed to do the disc brake upgrade. I am finding splintered information all through this board and I am attempting to put it all in one thread for future reference and use by others. Everyone's input will be much appreciated. As I get input I will edit the original post to reflect that information.

I am splitting this up in how I think people's trucks will most likely be configured as they need this information. Then I am sub dividing it in doing a cross member swap or just a parts swap. The years are split because it is my understanding that the framerails changed in those years. I have it split on engine configuration since they use different engine mounts. I realize that probably alot of it is going to be the same so I may need to combine some of these down the road. Again, everyone's help would be greatly appreciated!!

ITEMS TO NOTE:
Later model ('73-'87) suspensions have the rubber control arm bushings. They are less maintainence and less apt to make noise. Plus you can upgrade to urethane bushings if you want. (thanks CaptainFab)

The front cross members are basically the same from 63-87 so it makes it an easy swap with updated parts. (thanks 502tripower)

Replacing the entire cross member has the benefit that you can rebuild everything roll it under the rig bolt it up.

Pressure Differential Switch - The pressure differential valve is the device that alerts you if you have a leak in one of your brake circuits. The valve contains a specially shaped piston in the middle of a cylinder. Each side of the piston is exposed to the pressure in one of the two brake circuits. As long as the pressure in both circuits is the same, the piston will stay centered in its cylinder. But if one side develops a leak, the pressure will drop in that circuit, forcing the piston off-center. This closes a switch, which turns on a light in the instrument panel of the car." (thanks joe231) This wire is supposed to go the ground side of a warning light.

For donor parts of a 80-87 they must have the 1-1/4" rotors. The 80-87 year spindles also came with 1" rotors and are 'light duty' and won't work with the 6-lug rotors.

Yes-- You can pull the crossmember out with the motor still in place. I did lift it slightly with a engine puller just in case. The 6 cylinder is resting on the motor mounts with just the top frame bolts. (thanks bubba327)

You dont need a spring compressor to remove the coil springs. Jack up the front, set it on stands. Put your jack under the lower control arm. Loosen your castle nuts, DO NOT REMOVE, and wack that spindle with a hand sledge...They pop right apart generally. Then remove your castle nut and slowly and carefully lower the jack until you can pop out the spring. It straight forward, but its work. (thanks protrash64)

ADDITIONAL WORK REQUIRED ON ALL:
When you do these swaps, it also requires the addition of a split brake system, with a line for the front and one to the rear. I will be researching this information soon but for the moment the easiest thing to do is if you get the whole cross member, grab the lines and booster/mc as well even if you are going to replace it you will know what lines/hoses to run (thanks bubba327)

1960-1962/5 lug
Crossmember Swap:
1973-1987 (Chevy or GMC, 80-87 must have the 1-1/4" rotors.) Great how-to write up Here

Here is a great writeup/howto on a method of converting a 60-62 GMC V6 to a 350 Chevy small block engine with a tail shaft mounted transmission. This would apply to a Powerglide or Turbo 350 automatic, or manual 4 speed transmission such as the Borg Warner Super T10, or Muncie M21 or M22. Most of what follows also applies to Chevy trucks for 60-62. The main difference being the GMC motor mounts are welded to the frame and the Chevy mounts are bolted on. - Thanks markeb01!

Parts Swap:
(Not possible since the original suspension came with a torsion bar setup ?)


1963-1966/5 lug
Crossmember Swap:
'73-'87 front cross member bolts in with drilling/elongating a few holes (it will become a 5 lug)
The V8 and the I-6 (except the 292) perches are the same for these model years so it will bolt right up. (verification needed)

Parts Swap:
From '73-'87 you can unbolt the upper and lower control arms with the spindles attached and bolt these pieces onto your existing cross member. (clarification needed on 5-6 lug)
OR
You can re-use your existing upper and lower control arms and replace the upper and lower ball joints with new pieces from the '73-'87 donor truck. (clarification needed on 5-6 lug)

Now, the steering linkage is slightly different for the 1966 to 1973/1987
models ( specifically the tie rod diameters ). There are a few different ways one can approach this situation, 1: purchase the adapter sleeve that mates your original inner tie rod to the later model outer tie rod - cost for adapters about 50 bucks , 2: remove the threads from the larger, newer model tie rod and retap the tie rod with a left hand die to match the original older tie rod - cost for die about 30+ bucks plus the cost of the newer style tie rods , OR - drumroll please - 3: you can re-use the steering linkage from the donor truck, drill two new holes to mount the idler arm to the frame and bolt the whole assembley into your truck! I did this since the steering linkage in the donor truck had been recently replaced and it is MUCH beefier than the original 1966 parts. It will bolt to the existing pitman arm. Once completed you will need to have the alignment re-done. (thanks wild one)


1963-1966/6 lug
Crossmember Swap:
'73-'87 front cross member bolts in with drilling/elongating a few holes (will require an after market 6 lug spindle)
The V8 and the I-6 (except the 292) perches are the same for these model years so it will bolt right up. (verification needed)

If you have changed out your front end to a newer '73-'87 setup and want to keep the 6-lug style you can purchase the $89 ea. 6-lug rotors through ECE part #03-6370-6L - 60'-70' c-10 6-lug (1 1/4" thick) (thanks custom63)

Parts Swap:
From '73-'87 you can unbolt the upper and lower control arms with the spindles attached and bolt these pieces onto your existing cross member. (clarification needed on 5-6 lug)
OR
You can re-use your existing upper and lower control arms and replace the upper and lower ball joints with new pieces from the '73-'87 donor truck. (clarification needed on 5-6 lug)

Now, the steering linkage is slightly different for the 1966 to 1973/1987
models ( specifically the tie rod diameters ). There are a few different ways one can approach this situation, 1: purchase the adapter sleeve that mates your original inner tie rod to the later model outer tie rod - cost for adapters about 50 bucks , 2: remove the threads from the larger, newer model tie rod and retap the tie rod with a left hand die to match the original older tie rod - cost for die about 30+ bucks plus the cost of the newer style tie rods , OR - drumroll please - 3: you can re-use the steering linkage from the donor truck, drill two new holes to mount the idler arm to the frame and bolt the whole assembley into your truck! I did this since the steering linkage in the donor truck had been recently replaced and it is MUCH beefier than the original 1966 parts. It will bolt to the existing pitman arm. Once completed you will need to have the alignment re-done. (thanks wild one)

Option 1:
You need 73-87 3/4-1 ton lower control arms to do a 6 lug disc brake swap with stock 88-98 truck parts. (needs to be verified)

Option 2: (done by dream68)
The '88 spindle, rotor, calipers, and ball joints were used in the swap, but you need a 3/4 ton '68(other years see below) a-arm instead of the 1/2 ton one. The bottom '88 balljoint fits into the '68 a-arm, and the top '88 ball joint fits on the '68 a-arm. The top '88 ball joint you half to grind the rivets off of the 88 a-arm and then bolt it to the '68 a-arm. For steering linkage keep the 1968 1/2 ton intermediate shaft, 1988 1/2 ton tie rods, with the inner tie rod end changed to part#: MOOG ES2020. (done by dream68 on a '68 but should work on these years as well)

I used a 1990 chevy front end/parts that had 5 lug 1.25" thick rotors and went to AutoZone and bought new factory 6 lug 1.25" thick rotors and bolted them on. (thanks firstgen)

Potentially the following spindles, rotors, caliper and ball joints can be used (thanks jjr)
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 88 2500 Series; 4x2
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 88-91 1500 Series; 4x2, 1-1/4" thick rotor
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 2500 Series; VIN models "C/K", 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 1500 Series; 4x2
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 2500 Series; 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 99 1500 Series; exc. Silverado; 4x2
CHEVROLET VAN 96-99 1500 Series
CHEVROLET VAN 96-99 2500 Series; 7300 lb. GVW
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 88 2500 Series; VIN models "C/K", 4x2
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 88-91 1500 Series; 4x2, 1-1/4" thick rotor
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 2500 Series; VIN models "C/K", 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 1500 Series; 4x2
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 92-98 2500 Series; 4x2, 6 bolt wheel
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 99 1500 Series; old style (flat, pull-up outside door handle), 4x2
GMC VAN 96-99 1500 Series
GMC VAN 96-99 2500 Series; 7300 lb. GVW
SUBURBAN 92 1500 Series; 4x2
SUBURBAN 93-96 1500 Series; 4x2, vacuum brake booster
SUBURBAN 97-99 1500 Series; 4x2, gas
TAHOE/YUKON 95-99 4x2

Potentially the following low control arms may work (thanks jjr)
For lower control arm: the 67-70 3/4 lower arm can come from the following:
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 20 Series
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 20 Series
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET VAN 71 30 Series; drum brake
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 2500 Series
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 68-70 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 2500 Series
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 67-70 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC VAN 71 3500 Series; drum brake
SUBURBAN 67-70 20 Series
SUBURBAN 67-70 2500 Series

If the 71-up 3/4 ton lower control arm can work they can come from the following:
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 71-72 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 71-89 20 Series
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 73-78 30 Series; non-removable carrier
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 79-84 30 Series; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 85-92 30 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
CHEVROLET FORWARD CONTROL 93 30 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels, w/o 9L6 brakes
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 71-72 30 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 71-88 20 Series
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 73-80 30 Series
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 81-88 30 Series; std. duty susp.
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 2500 Series; VIN models "R/V"
CHEVROLET PICKUP TRUCK 89-91 3500 Series; VIN models "R/V", std. duty susp.
CHEVROLET VAN 72-78 30 Series
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 71-72 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 71-89 2500 Series
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 73-78 3500 Series; non-removable carrier
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 79-84 3500 Series; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 85-92 3500 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels
GMC FORWARD CONTROL 93 3500 Series; exc. hvy. duty front susp.; drum rear brakes, sgl. rear wheels, w/o 9L6 brakes
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 71-72 3500 Series; 7200 lb. rear axle
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 71-87 2500 Series
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 73-80 3500 Series
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 81-87 3500 Series; std. duty susp.
GMC PICKUP TRUCK 88-91 3500 Series; VIN models "R/V", std. duty susp.
GMC VAN 72-78 3500 Series
SUBURBAN 71-88 20 Series
SUBURBAN 71-91 2500 Series

NOTE: The steer stops are different on the older arms(same deal as the 1/2 tons, it will shorten the turning radius), & will require a little grinding on the stops on the spindles to straighten it up. (thanks crazy longhorn)

Option 2: (done by firstgen)
I used a 1990 chevy front end/parts that had 5 lug 1.25" thick rotors and went to AutoZone and bought new factory 6 lug 1.25" thick rotors and bolted them on. (thanks firstgen)
Basically these are the parts I used:

1968 C20 lower control arms
1990 3/4 ton Light Duty 2X4 must have (1.25" rotors) spindles
1990 1.25" thick 6 lug rotors
1990 calipers off same truck
1990 upper and lower ball joints
1990 outer tie rods
inner tie rods MOOG part #ES2020RL
1990 style tie rod coupler

The only catch is to cut 3/4" off each end of both tie rods on each side of the truck so you can have enough room to align the truck. Well at least I had to since mine is lowered 4" in the front.

The front end I bought off the 1990 truck was 5 lug. All I did was went and bought the 6 lug rotors and bolted them on. If you wanted to stay with the 5 lug, you'd save yourself about $120 bucks.

After everything is done, you will now have 14mm studs on the front. I fixed this by drilling my rear axles and pressing in 14mm studs in the rear also but you wouldn't have to do this... I plan on going to a rear disc setup using a floating rotor design and so this helps that plan also...

I used the rubber lines off the 1990 truck and used the factory mount from the 1990 to secure the line to the frame.

Option 2: (done by captainfab)
Spindles from any '88-'98 1/2 ton or light 3/4 ton 2wd pickup or suburban. Rotors from a 7200# GVW 3/4ton from '88-'98 (for some reason there is one part # for '88 & '89 and another for '90-'94. There are only minor differences between the two) I bought the one for the '90-'94 which is Raybestos #56915RGS. The ball joints you need to use are the ones for the '88-'98 spindles. The uppers will fit '63-'87 1/2 ton upper a-arms. The lowers will fit '69-'87 3/4 ton lower a-arms. The '69-'72 are prefered because of the shorter bump stop bracket. The newer ones could be easily modified. For steering you will need to use the '88-'98 outter tierod ends and the adjuster sleeves with ES2020L (ES2020RL?) inner tierod ends to mate up with the drag link. The calipers to use are the '88-'98 ones. Other than some minor things and replacement parts like bearings and seals, etc, I think that's about it.