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Old 10-31-2013, 12:34 AM   #14
66 C10 383
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Somewhere In So. IL.
Posts: 398
Re: My First Classic Truck Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hedman Hedders View Post
Let me know how those 69010 headers fit. We haven't tested them on a '66 yet. It would be good to know.
As soon as I get the engine dropped in I'll grab some pics. A member here in the 67-72 section has some on his and said he had to use a shorty plug. Were these designed for shorty plugs or regular plugs?

As far as the rest of my build, progress is slow. Being 45 miles from my truck, not having a garage, and a rather crazy work schedule will do that I guess.

EFI ... it can be your friend or your worst enemy ...

My TPI setup has been off for well over 6 years now. Injectors need cleaned ... what sensors are still good and which ones need replaced ... then since my setup has changed from going on an 86 Cutlass to a 66 C10 truck the tuning will be different. Getting it tuned out ... at my present rate of progress seems like it's going to take f-o-r-e-v-e-r ....

So, with that mindset, I've decided to just bolt on a carb. I already have a Carter AFB that was on a previous 350 I had before it turned into a 383. The carb will need rebuilt and since the engine is now a 383 (with AFR heads and bigger hydraulic roller cam) I'll need to upgrade to an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. I may use a stock HEI distributor until I can get a Davis DUI HEI that is tailored to my setup.

I did manage to get my engine off the engine stand and got my pilot bushing in the crank and the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, and Lakewood bellhousing all bolted up. I'm hoping my bellhousing is going to work, it's actually designed for an 82-83 Camaro with mechanical clutch. The difference being the fork is angled downward some. I hope the clutch rod don't slip off the fork or what will need to be done to make it work. If all else fails, I guess I'll get a different bellhousing. Maybe the stock cast iron bellhousing will work. If a stock style Muncie 4 speed will bolt to the stock bell, then it'll work for my 6 speed it being an Aftermarket 6 speed. I'll still have to cut the bellhousing crossmember out since I'll be using a crossmember under the tranny due to the added weight and length. Think a stock automatic crossmember moved back will work?

In looking at my T56 6 speed tranny, it looks like it's about 10" longer than the stock 3 speed trans from bellhousing to tailshaft. The driveshaft I have now is the light duty carrier bearing driveshaft. Captainfab recommended I swap to the heavy duty driveshaft. Are the driveshafts the same with the carrier only being different or is the whole driveshaft different? Will needing to shorten the shaft 10'' be short enough to run a single driveshaft rather than a 2 piece?
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Doug

Old Build Thread - 383/T56
http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=540838

Updated Build Thread - Modern Relic - 66 C10 536 Dark Aqua
5.3/4L60E - BTR Stage IV Truck Cam - Vintage Air - Dakota Digital
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=778784
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