I decided that it was time to complete the clutch linkage.
I had the flywheel resurfaced some time ago. It was really torn up. The previous owner must have let the clutch go too long. It's easy for me to understand why this engine is so heavy. The flywheel must weigh 60 lbs.
I had to install the clutch to make sure that the lengths of the lever arms were correct. This is a pull type clutch with a clutch brake. The travel of the pedal in the cab must match the travel of the clutch. There must be some free play in the linkage when the pedal is up to prevent premature failure of the throwout bearing from constantly being engaged. The throwout bearing must contact the clutch brake before the pedal hits the floor so that the brake will stop the transmission.
Here's the clutch installed - it is heavy too!
I decided to make my own clutch arm because I could not make the old arm work in the space that I have. I made the arm and tacked it to the clutch cross shaft.
I made a new link from the rear pivot to the clutch arm from some 3/8" bar stock and re-used the OEM adjuster. I had to make a new arm for the rear pivot. It is where the ratio between the clutch pedal travel and the clutch arm travel is set. To ensure that everything was correct, I put the cab back on the chassis and had the wife depress the clutch pedal.
Here's some photos of the completed linkage.
Both ends of the clutch travel are correct and the linkage doesn't bind. I am concerned about the OEM rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the bell crank. It does flex some. I may have to fabricate a stronger rod; but, for now I am calling this task done.