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Old 08-02-2020, 10:10 AM   #4
Ironangel
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Falls City, Nebraska "100 Miles From Nowhere"
Posts: 1,878
Re: 1974 454 rebuild questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69Tom View Post
I've run a bunch of searches on this topic as there's been many a 454 rebuilt, and none seem to give me any specifics on what I'm looking to do. Basically, I'd like to get about 400 HP out of it while keeping it mostly stock, which I've read is pretty easy. Just seems like there's a ton of HP left on the table with these engines. Except I haven't seen how to actually accomplish this.

As far as I can tell, the engine is completely original to my 74 C20, so it's a stock 454. I don't really want to do a stroker and end up buying aftermarket heads, intake, etc.

So what do I need to do for the following:
  1. What style pistons do I want to use?
  2. Where to I want my compression ratio to be at?
  3. How do I want to achieve this compression ratio? Pistons only?
  4. What should I plan on having done to the heads?
  5. What cam is recommended? While upping HP, would still like to keep some good torque as it's a C20 and would like to still tow, haul.
  6. Keep the stock crank and rods, or change?
  7. I'd like to be able to take it on some road trips from time to time, in case this may affect an answer above.

Sadly, as always cost is an issue, so I'd like to keep my costs within reason.

I appreciate the help and sorry for another 454 rebuild post.
I can attest to the 268H cam. Cant really give any more advice until we know the casting numbers on your heads. Ziegelsteinfaust and kwmech are dead on. The stock rods in the truck 454's are golden! Having hardened exhaust seats installed in the iron heads will insure a long life for both heads and valves. Stock crank is fine as long as your not pounding the motor at the strip and spinning it up past 6K rpm. New springs, Comps steel roller rockers, 7/16" studs w/ARP lock nuts, and 3/8" Comp Magnum push rods and your golden. The 268H cam will work fine with the above. If you can afford forged pistons, use them! Match you pistons to your heads to achieve something in the 8.5 to 9.0 static CR. Oh, stainless valves are a good choice and relatively cheap too. Balancing that rotating assembly to your factory crank is a must and will insure a long life for components as well the motor overall...Find a good machinist!
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