While there's so much information out there, strikes me there's not much of a process on installing control arms. It could be so obvious I'm missing it. Here's what I did, for original suspension only. Input welcome, I'm new at this.
I installed the bushings with an even coat of grease. I hit the threads, the sleeve and the seal. I have NO IDEA if that's right and see nothing about using grease. But I do see where major auto chain says use dish liquid
I made sure the bushings would install all the way into the control arms without the shafts. That's Grumpy's suggestion, so if it's messed up it's his fault
. Really, it's the right way.
I installed the bushings with the shafts mounted. Another one of Grump's suggestions. Lots of people say make sure your shaft is centered with the control arm. You don't have much choice if the shaft is already mounted. There's only what, a 16th-ish play in the control shafts front to back, and you can feel dead center on the locator post for the lower shaft. I left the shafts snug as I tightened the bushings, but it didn't seem to matter.
But you do want to tighten the bushings equally, or rather, as close as possible. I don't know if it's right, but I started counting rotations as soon as the bushing grabbed the shaft. The uppers had equal spacing from the bushing nut to the control arm throughout the process. I ended up tightening one bushing a bit more on every shaft to finish, but they were close. That's likely to be expected. The bushings went on nicely.......... after a few attempt's
The lowers worked out a pinch different, because there was not equal spacing to thread the control arm after one rotation. Perhaps because I started counting rotations on the shaft. No matter what I did the bushings wouldn't measure up. So I loosened one bushing and tightened the other a pinch equally, measured, and remarked the bushings.
The bushings should go in evenly without much torque required. If one is a little tuff back off a half turn or so, and come at it again. If one nearly seizes then start over again. The bushings will tell you if it's right or wrong after having benched it.
There's a ton of info. on where to torque 9/16" U-bolt nuts. I read one place 75 ft. lbs. on a C-10. That's where I ended up. I used anti-seize. Don't know if it's right, but that was a tough 75 pounds.
Apparently it's normal for a control arm, especially an upper arm to be more stiff than the other. Word is what they shouldn't do is tense up in one position or be very stiff. Both my LH arms move best, they budge with a finger. Maybe it's because I always do the RH first
I'm kidding (hopefully).
And yeah, it really is a pickle trying to grease new parts through a zerk fitting, they're about locked down shut. Apparently they'll loosen up as things settle.