Hopefully the writeup below will help someone in the future. If you have questions, ask here or send me a PM and I would be more than happy to help. Pictures are below also if you want to skip the semi DIY...
Also as an FYI, this worked for me because I have to get my drive shaft shortened anyway...so it was no big deal.
Got the perches installed and the engine moved this morning. Was not as hard as I had anticipated. We supported the engine from underneath with a jack and a 2x6 and the transmission with another jack and 2x6.
I removed the bolts for the trans crossmember to the frame and the engine mount and perch on one side only...kind of did it like a motor mount swap except we had to get the perches and trans crossmember bolts out.
I took the perch and mount out of the drivers side and installed the new motor mount to the engine, then slid the perch in and loosely bolted it to the mount. Then did the same to the other side.
I had originally thought we would roll the engine and trans forward with the jacks, but my friend Carl had a brilliant idea. While both trans crossmember and engine perches were supported above the frame, we rolled the frame back the 2 1/2". Was so easy and worked great.
The bolt holes lined up easily and we dropped the bolts and washer down into the frame and put the nuts on the underside so it wouldn't move...then did the same to the other side. Torqued everything up and was good to go.
The engine looks so much better moved 2 1/2" forward...not close to the firewall at all anymore. The rams horn will fit easily now and I don't have to worry about the HEI distributor touching the firewall.
I still need to drill new holes for the trans crossmember and bolt it back in place. I also want to clean up the frame where the OEM perches were and paint, but that is easy. All in all not a bad swap and looks great IMO.