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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed
Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Stanger
One hole exits, other did not, yet.
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Ahh.... Your statement confused me but then I looked @ your reference pic again & noticed only 1 bolt securing the Idler bracket.
That is weird. The holes are placed to keep the steering pivot points parallel. I've never looked into Captainfabs power steering adapter set-up to know specifics but I'm assuming it doesn't alter anything so the Idler position shouldn't change.
Something doesn't seem right w/that so keep scrutinizing the parts compatibility. I'm wondering if you need a later center-link? When I did my early drum-to-disc brake swaps in the 90's I swapped to 71-72 center-links to keep the tie-rods consistent. I never investigated if the center-links were physically different beyond that.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG
Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....
Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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