Yeah, I've already changed that stupid fitting once before on this, once on the 91 Suburban, and just ditched it on the diesel. I am coming up with something hair brained to do away with this one...
I think my problem is the heater fitting is an Advance Auto replacement. I have had no luck with parts store junk. I also converted to the wrong coolant back in Colorado, but it is Fleetcharge, not generic.
I'll be going through the cooling system here in a few weeks. I need this to stay up and running until I finish a few things on the diesel to make it road worthy.
Remember that picture of the radio guts above? Well, I was having a frustrating time troubleshooting no left channel and bad cross talk. After several hours of troubleshooting, I discovered the cable I was using for the remote auxiliary port was shorted! Not having a local source for stuff like that, I chose the next best thing and eliminated the cable.
I didn't take any pictures of the splicing because by the time I redid the wiring I was too frustrated with how much time I had already spent.
I used this tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUX2Iq4OfQk
obviously in the video he is using a CD player, and mine is a tape deck (oh yeah, rockin the cassette player), but the separate FM modulator board is the key component. My radio is GM part number 14194445. I originally didn't want the jack on the face of the radio, so I compromised. I used some 2-part plastic weld epoxy and glued door closed from the back, then I marked and drilled for the jack.
This is something that helps understand the video. FMM is the FM Modulator board side of the harness, and AMP is the Amplifier board side of the harness.
When he talks about separating wires for a remote jack, he means that you have to run one shielded cable for the line in from the modulator and another cable for the line out to the amp, plus a ground wire.
Even though I complain about parts store junk, sometimes it is a necessary evil... Like when your door is falling off and you need dorman hinge pins because shipping will take too long.
So all in all, it has been a productive week in the garage. I originally pulled the Yukon in to troubleshoot a 36 code I had in the ABS system. I followed the troubleshooting steps in the FSM and didn't find any faults with any of the components or wiring. I even went one step further and ohm tested the harness. If it comes back this weekend, I guess I will punt. I can swap parts with the diesel for troubleshooting purposes (that's the beauty of having 2 '95's I guess). It's a frustrating code because it kills cruise control.