Quote:
Originally Posted by 84blaze
I'm at the point where I think I might end up looking at this thing foir the rest of my life. My garage doesn't have enough power running to it for me to run my welder and other stuff so I've decided to put my welder up for sale and buy a code 504 kit. If I buy the kit i have a better feeling that ill get to work on it.
It's already starting to get colder and I'm not looking forward to the winter.
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As 99 said above, I'd invest in a power feed over a kit, either 220 V or larger diameter conductor. I'm not an electrician but I've managed to add new circuits myself, I put in 220 V feed to an electric dryer in my house, had it code inspected and signed off by the city. Its really not that hard, you just need to research it, and your local city code inspectors will tell you if you're doing it wrong. Plus, you're still going to need a welder for other parts of the truck.
If you stick with doing the mounts yourself, have you figured out where you're going to set your cab? I can offer my advice. My cab mounts were constructed to place the bottom of the cab floor board support 4 in. from the top of the frame. The rears were then placed to level the cab floor with the frame.
I found out that at this height, my radiator fitting was TIGHT. I only had about a 1/8 in. left so I lucked out. Also, the distance between my driveshaft yoke and un-modified AD floor is just under 1/2 inch. Because of this, I may go 4.25 in. if I ever did this again. But with that all being said, I had made the assumption when I decided on 4.0 in. that it would be easier to shim it up a little than go down. Also, looking at where your frame is, you would either lay or daylight the running boards aired out with the cab 4.25 off the frame.
I look forward to seeing how your air ride comes out…I’d like to bag my truck down the road.