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**HO455** · 10-21-2020, 09:13 PM

Will do Doc!

Yesterday I put the WMB on jack stands and removed the front air bags. I was pretty much A&E most of the day so I did get much in the way of photos. Just the one of using a Porta Power to pop the lower ball joint out of the spindle and one of how to modify the lower control arm if you re-index the control arm shaft for caster.
The photo of removing the lower ball joint was taken after the joint was popped out. Staged if you will. I used an deep impact socket to clear the upper ball joint nut and stem. I pumped the Porta Power up and put some soft heat on the spindle where the ball joint taper is and a couple minutes later the joint popped free.
I had notched the control arm (Blue circle in photo 2) so it will clear the saddle on the crossmember. (Photo #3) I had done this on the other control arms but I didn't seem to document it at the time.
Doing the caster modification on the lower control arm shaft it moves the arm forward and it will contact the saddle.
My new control arms had the wrong ball joints installed so I swapped them this morning and everything was ready to put the new springs in and button it up.
Unfortunately Hotchkis put the wrong springs in the right box, so no buttoning up of things! Ughhhh!
I called Jegs and they didn't have any other springs in stock and I wasn't going to have the truck sitting on jack stands for 7 weeks waiting for an other set from Hotchkis.
I ended up ordering a pair of Classic Performance 2 inch lowering springs from Summit. I went with 2nd day air so I might be get the truck back on the road by Saturday. I have no experience with this brand of springs but they were in stock. I hope they work out well, but it's still 2020 so I'm not placing any bets.

I need to thank Chevy_Mike for his method of installing the control arm shaft bushings. Much easier and faster than going by the book. When I was finished the torque came to about 130 ft. lbs. Slightly over the 95 ft. lbs. the manual calls out for used parts.
I found it in this thread. The 2nd post.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=508095

10-21-2020, 09:13 PM	#715
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 10,787	Re: Working Man's Burbon Will do Doc! Yesterday I put the WMB on jack stands and removed the front air bags. I was pretty much A&E most of the day so I did get much in the way of photos. Just the one of using a Porta Power to pop the lower ball joint out of the spindle and one of how to modify the lower control arm if you re-index the control arm shaft for caster. The photo of removing the lower ball joint was taken after the joint was popped out. Staged if you will. I used an deep impact socket to clear the upper ball joint nut and stem. I pumped the Porta Power up and put some soft heat on the spindle where the ball joint taper is and a couple minutes later the joint popped free. I had notched the control arm (Blue circle in photo 2) so it will clear the saddle on the crossmember. (Photo #3) I had done this on the other control arms but I didn't seem to document it at the time. Doing the caster modification on the lower control arm shaft it moves the arm forward and it will contact the saddle. My new control arms had the wrong ball joints installed so I swapped them this morning and everything was ready to put the new springs in and button it up. Unfortunately Hotchkis put the wrong springs in the right box, so no buttoning up of things! Ughhhh! I called Jegs and they didn't have any other springs in stock and I wasn't going to have the truck sitting on jack stands for 7 weeks waiting for an other set from Hotchkis. I ended up ordering a pair of Classic Performance 2 inch lowering springs from Summit. I went with 2nd day air so I might be get the truck back on the road by Saturday. I have no experience with this brand of springs but they were in stock. I hope they work out well, but it's still 2020 so I'm not placing any bets. I need to thank Chevy_Mike for his method of installing the control arm shaft bushings. Much easier and faster than going by the book. When I was finished the torque came to about 130 ft. lbs. Slightly over the 95 ft. lbs. the manual calls out for used parts. I found it in this thread. The 2nd post. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=508095 Attached Images __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban the WMB,1991 S(stink)-10 Blazer,1969 GTO, 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird. 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 Last edited by HO455; 10-23-2020 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Added thank you note.