Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherWs6
Question - how much is your AFR bouncing around n general at idle and cruising? I imagine that at WOT it is fairly steady (correct me if I'm wrong) but is it doing a dance otherwise? Again, I went with analog gauges so I'm concerned with being able to get good part throttle readings once installed. You know? If it's bouncing all back and forth from 15 to 11 it's going to be tough. I had an Autometer unit that tapped into the factory O2's on a 91 5.0 many moons ago and that thing danced all around unless you floored it. We are talking about a whole different kind of accuracy with dedicated widebands and modern technology, but if you were trying to tune a carb with the readings that that thing got you would probably throw it out of a window fairly quickly.
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Just because you went with the Analog gauges (and I am not sure which exactly) but it don't mean you can't data log, so please post your specific make and model and part number on this thread this is to help everyone out and we will check if they can, I think they sure can
keep in mind you need to be tuning a
sound engine and by sound I mean working properly, all in order, so no VACUUM LEAKS, no oil leaks, NO VACUUM LEAKS, no coolant leaks, and did I mention NO VACUUM LEAKS, ha ha, valves adjusted properly, and your spark plugs gapped properly, wide gap for H.E.I. distributor if you got one, .045(ish) all plugs exactly the same gap, all plugs the same brand, and none of them fancy Unobtanium ones just good ol's stock AC Delco or what ever the manual recommends, every single plug wire checked for proper resistance Ohms and within spec, if not get new ones, just because you buy new plug wires don't mean they are all good, (ask me how I know)
to check for vacuum leaks, simply isolate the problem, label every vacuum hose before you pull it off with blue tape, for example Dist Adv, Brk Boost, AC, blah blah blah
then go out to the store and get yourself some black rubber port plugs and plug every single port on the carb, every one, you don't even need vacuum advance at idle
this will eliminate your PCV Positive Crank Case Ventilation valve from leaking, your Power Brake Booster vacuum line leaking, your anything else vacuum hose from leaking
DISCLAIMER: now I aint trying to micromanage you I am just trying to help with as much specifics as I can offer