Sorry guys for not getting back sooner.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71STPSDE
Have you done a compression check and see if all the cylinders are equal?
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I have not yet done a compression check, although I agree I need to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv D
And the obvious, did you use a regular dino-juice oil for the first 500 miles or so? Synthetic will actually be so slick that the rings will take a long time to seat,, especially plain cast rings. If you had used a good plasma-moly ring then the inlay is soft enough it's not as big of an issue.
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I used, and am still using, Amsoil's High-Zinc Engine Break-in Oil. So yes, it is a synthetic.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/brk.aspx Dad is an Amsoil dealer, so naturally that is what we used. After reading so many good reviews about it, I figured why not. You bring a good point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv D
I'd suggest you see where you stand after the new valve stem seals. If there loose enough to allow oil til weep down and puddle when the engine is off, imagine what happens when the vacuum of a running motor does!
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I agree that I need to change the seals first, then report back.
For those of you asking if the covers have baffles, yes they do, and the pcv is pulling from a baffled port. Keep in mind I did put a separator inline with the hose so I do know that the oil is not being pulled through there. There is maybe a drop of oil in the separator after 2 weeks of driving. Anyone think that the high volume oil pump is a bad thing and that I should pull it and replace with a standard pump?
Thanks guys again for your input. There are a few more things I need to check into, and any other suggestions would be awesome. Unfortunately, it is my daily driver, so the time I can work on it is limited to weekends mainly. I'm almost tempted to just do a quick rebuild of the cylinder walls and rings while I'm installing the Bowtie trans. We'll see though.
