I dropped the dizzy in twice, first try the oil pump drive didn't line up, rotor too much counter clockwise....rotated the rotor a bit clockwise and dropped it in with the rotor pointin close to Cylinder one...lightly clamped the dizzy base with the clamp screw.
Looking in the dizzy, rotor off, there are six inner nipples that fire the plug when they all line up with the six outer nipples. The nipples are out of line.
Rotate the dizzy body so the six inner nipples line up with the six outer nipples. If I had power now, the number one plug would fire at 10 degrees BTDC. Just what I want.
Put on the rotor and cap. I numbered the towers, 153624, the 230 I6 firing order...rotor is pointing at/ready to fire cylinder 1 remember.....its marked 1 and the others consecutively in firing order.
Unravel the wireing tape from the old coil to the bulkhead connector and then down to the starter. There are two wires to remove from the harness, 12 volt power (yellow) from starter to coil and resister (white cloth covered) from bulkhead to coil. The remaining wires are from bulkhead to starter, bulkhead to oil sender and bulkhead to water sender, they stay in the harness.
Here is the bulkhead connector...remove the yellow wire and the white cloth covered wire...(the white cloth covered wire turned brown and black from dirt, but its white up near the bulkhead connector). As indicated above, all the other wires in this bulkhead connector are retained to run idiot lights, etc.
This is the single pin that the yellow and white cloth covered wire eventually connect to in the bulkhead, remove it and scavenge the connector for reuse.
I soldered the scavenged bulkhead connector to a pretty yellow 12g wire to connect to the coil of my new HEI. This provides full time 12 volts unlike the old white cloth covered wire which reduced points voltage after warm up to keep the points from burning. No Points anymore, we can run full ignition switched power to the HEI coil.
