Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy old man
"Installed the upper control arms today. I assembled them Grumpy style, by threading the bushings with the shaft installed on the truck. So if it doesn't work out, I know just who to blame " 
I think what Steeveedee is referring to is the left upper arm can be installed on the right side and vice versa .
I'm sure it's all fine and once aligned and with all the weight on it you'll balance out get some Dykem torque seal to mark your bushings it's a quick visual check to make sure nothings loose or moving every ones seen it before but not many use it on reinstall . . try to get the grease zerk fittings to point down . makes it easier to get the grease gun on the fitting later on . I'd get more pictures of mine done but it's already bagged in plastic to keep it clean .
Dykem indicator paste --- https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/pa...1185_1215.html |
I was hoping U might chime in
Good information. Against my first instinct I'll leave the shims to the pros.....Something is off on my RH side, either the bracket or A-arm. There's little clearance between the front of the bracket and the edge of the arm, but I think it's okay. The LH side is perfect all the way around..............Can't be the cross member, it only fits one way.
The only way to screw this up is are the bushings, and that's not it. I did the RH twice
It's in my head, 4.5 360s both sides and you're a pinch off the A-arm
I followed it all the way through. The shafts are nuts with the A-arms. A bushing on each side did have more to give, I believe that's normal, though I did see where you can make some adjustment.
Speak of zerk fittings, I suspect Moogs parts are engineered enough you can use the zerk fittings tight as an indicator how the bushings should finish. Not that you can't adjust the fittings, perhaps even the bushings. That and when the bushings contact the shaft the tip on the nut is @ 12-O-clock. Makes for an easy mark.