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Old 04-04-2007, 05:39 PM   #1
Frizzle Fry
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hillsboro Oregon
Posts: 6,449
Blazer Tank Install on the CHEAP... $50

After mentioning this tank on the Low-Buck thread I've had a few PMs about it, so I figured I'd post the info here.

I did this a couple years ago and have since sold the truck to board member JRB. So I'll post all the pics I have of it, for any more pics (such as the sender mod) we'll have to go through JRB.

You can get 73-87 style Blazer tanks "new" (old but not used), from HERE for $25 plus about $25(+/-) shipping. Search for Blazer and it will come up. They do list as "Diesel," but that does not matter for our application. Since they are unused they will hold gasoline just as well as they would diesel (no flush required).

To save even more money I welded in the sender flange from the truck tank, and bent the truck's sending unit float arm to work in the blazer tank.

The Blazer sending unit has a bigger flange/seal and these tanks don't come with a sending unit. I was on a really tight budget at the time and didn't want to buy the correct sending unit at ~$120 or so new. So I figured out how to use the sending unit out of the truck tank. Part of that involved cutting the smaller flange from the truck tank and welding it into the blazer tank.

Then the dip tube and float arm had to be bent appropriately to work in the detentions of the new tank. It actually ended up working flawlessly.
...or you could just buy the sender that goes to that tank.

I also welded on the filler neck from the truck so I could just use the original cap and fill through the bed floor. Because the tank is square you should be able to mount it turned 90* if you want to use a side filler.

***Safety Note: I filled the tank with water before welding. Even though it's "new" there's just something scary about welding on a fuel tank.. maybe it's just me
Also, I believe the tanks are galvanized, but if you sufficiently clean the areas to be welded with a blaster or wire-wheel you can make a good weld. Just be sure to do it outside and avoid the fumes more than you normally would when welding. I've heard galvanic poisoning sucks big time

The "crooked" crossmember behind the rear-end had to be trimmed a bit as seen in the pics.

The hanger straps I used were found in the plumbing section of Home Depot. I think they are meant for securing hot water heaters. These were not the type with perforations. They are galvanized with doubled-over edges. I also used a plastic/rubber insulator made from that floor/wall/edge kick-guard stuff you see in classrooms and offices (another Home Depot purchase).

I held the tank in place with a floor-jack, drilled through one strap and the frame, secured it, then pulled it tight and did the same on the other side. In the end I used 4 bolts per strap.

I extended the fuel gauge wire and ran rubber fuel line from where it normally turns from the frame over to the cab floor. I bent that back towards the back more (normally a 90) so that I still had access to install the clamp, but got the fuel line back into the frame as soon as possible. I know some say you should always run 100% steel line for fuel, but I felt safe with the way I routed and secured the line.

So for $50 plus a couple penny items I was in business

Here's the pics:
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