More progress... using our rare earth magnets on the end of the bead roller die to correct the "back spacing", the fan shroud has the center bead added...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRXF3sInnTU
Next, adding the outer joggle for the wire. Our last mis-step at this stage was expecting a folded flange to perform as it did on a flat piece of metal.. But as a full circle with 1/2" of flange, it tends to resist any change in diameter, so our efforts to add the joggle (stretch outward) were met with catastrophic failure in the way of a split. This next attempt will leave that edge straight out instead of flanged, such that it will be more apt to move/stretch as we need it to.. Additionally, our dies will have a backstop built in and include two bead forming details. One will follow the center bead already installed, and with the back stop as part of the die, should correct any wiggle our bead roller may have added. Having both bead details added to the dies will also help to maintain correct spacing throughout. As these beading dies tend to pull material from either side, having multiple beads makes it more of a challenge to pull sufficient material for both and have enough for the bead height.. Adding one prior using the bead roller means we will only be "pulling" material for the one, for better results.
Our test sample shows the wrap for the wire straighter to the side, for less resistance to adding the offset.
Shroud is then trimmed to size and run through the dies on the Lennox..
This did give us a slight potato chip shape of the panel, so the offset was stretched in the Erco..
Our tubing straightener is used to make our 3/16 wire more concentric for an easier install..
Then the wire was test fit...
Mike got our interior assembly and wiring started, the rear tail light / fuel door actuator was installed, the sub box and amp installed, and our relays for the fuel door mounted adjacent to the amp, all tucked away behind the rear seat.
