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Old 09-17-2017, 06:28 PM   #17
dillonv2008
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: sacramento,ca
Posts: 80
Re: 1946 chevy truck build.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joedoh View Post
I am not saying your bars dont measure 13", I am saying in the plane viewed from the side of the truck, the bars will be much shorter than 13", more like 9 or 10 effective length. make a mark on the frame at the axle, then measure forward to where the bar attaches, it will be 10 inches or less. this is all that matters in bar length, effective length. I could have a 70" long bar set at a 1/2 degree angle from the rear axle and the effective length would only be 2".

did you buy a parallel link and switch it to triangulated? all 4 21" sounds like a parallel 4 link setup. either way, to manage pinion angle change you need to get the bar lengths within about 80% of each other. so for a 21" bar that is 17" effective length. thats about how long it would be if you took a 21" bar and mounted it at an angle for a triangulated setup.

Most guys put the upper bars down because that is what the frame allows, but having them already at a down angle when the bottom bars are level means you will have lots of pinion angle change. Its true that "pinching" the front of the bars together (upper pointing down slightly to roughly level lower bars) changes IC. but with adjustable suspension I would recommend to try getting your pinion angle change and roll steer good and worry about IC as a secondary concern.
also my lower bar brackets from axle are pushed forward and back of it is vertical up and down that a shock would mount too. my question on that is should the bracket be where the bar link is under the axle or is it fine that it is pushed forward infront of axle. it is level with ground, lower bars
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