Quote:
Originally Posted by A1971Blazer
I may be stating the obvious here...if so forgive me
the first spanner nut is the bearing adjustment nut....it should not be "tight" as it sets the correct pre-load on the bearings.
The retaining washer....with all the holes...goes next to maintain the position of the first spanner nut.
Then the outer "locking" spanner nut goes on.....it should be "tight" ...it keeps the hub fastened to the spindle..
As for the grinding....I don't know....have a picture?
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Obvious works for me, sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees...
I've adjusted the preloads in and out, repacked bearings(these are used), talked to a shop, that has 50 years experiance, followed the Chilton manual to a 'T', it says to back off first nut almost 90 degrees. still has a click.
So, you go back to the last thing you did, and I had rotors pressed on the hub, as I was laying the hub assembly on the ground, it didn't sound right, after further thought, I looked into the rotor, and it was loose on the hub, they used the old wheel studs, but it was only loose in one section.
Now I'm on the search for correct wheel studs, and have them pressed in to see if that is the problem. My first thought was brearings, since that would be the cheapest fix first, but the most obvious thing points to the wheel studs
The owner of the shop said the drivers side is the one he has seen the most problems with, since the rotation of the tire tends to loosen the spanner nut, he said to tighten the outside nut to 100 ft/lbs