Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
-check with the manufacturer on what type of fluid to use in the rack and ask specifically if the GM type will work with the components in the rack. I usually recommend power steering fluid as opposed to atf just because it is specifically made for steering systems. lots of guys would simply fill it up and hope for the best, lol. type F was made more for transmissions that use bronze in their friction clutch plates.
-steering shaft-larger DD will help with really off angle set ups that are long, too make them less flexible and less apt to bind without a support bearing. a fairly straight shot to the rack should be fine with the smaller DD shaft. I recommend a slip shaft due to collapsibility in a front end collision, otherwise it is a spear in front of your chest.
-I recommend dexcool because it is a long life coolant and flushing coolant is not on everybody's to do list. the longer the coolant is left in the system the more chance the PH level changes and it becomes acidic. I have seen old rusty coolant eat a hole in an aluminum water pump housing.
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Thanks for the input. You make a good point about the longevity of dexcool but I think I am going to have to go with the green stuff. I am using a champion radiator and they specifically say not to use dexcool. They say Dexcool is great in closed systems like the stock LS but that their radiator uses and over flow tank where air meets the coolant and air does bad things to the dexcool. Or so says the link I posted of theirs. then there is the fact that it sounds like dexcool eats brass faster than glycol. I have a brass heater core. I think I will just have to make sure I do bi-annual coolant flushes. I might try the propylene glycol since its way less toxic and if I am changing that every few years its not to keep poison levels down.