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Old 10-11-2015, 11:24 AM   #14
joedoh
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Doodah Kansas
Posts: 7,747
Re: Air bag suspension parts sourcing and plubming

Sounds like you need a pressure switch and valves and line. I always get my individual parts at gauge magazine store.

http://store.gaugemagazine.com/

you can get manual paddle valves from them, made by firestone, I ran a set of those back in the mid 90s on my toyota. they werent super fast but were super reliable. there is also a set of manuals by little larry (littlelarry.net) that come as one setup with 4 bag control. Some people dont like manuals because of running all the lines in the cab, but manuals are reliable and work great in the cold of winter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RKO View Post
You would have to be in a hard corner for a long time for that much air to move.
as someone who has had a lot of airbagged cars trucks, this hasnt been my experience. with shared valves on the front and rear, the front was more than happy to lay over on the outboard side in a turn, even with a swaybar installed. now this wasnt even on a 60-66, so I am not saying you arent right, but all the cars and trucks I ran 2 valve systems on the front had a big problem in turns.

in the rear on some setups I have run 2 valves and it was fine, but thats still not a huge savings, running 6 valves instead of 8.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Free Candy Inside View Post
I ran my compressors into water traps and then into the tank. On the top of both pics is a reducer and then my pressure switch. I have my compressors on relays and I wired mine up slightly different. I am running power all the time to the relay and then wired the negative/ground to the pressure switch. With the pressure switch being the ground it is less likely to burn up so I've read/bean told.
both of free candys posts, this is all great advice, especially ground switch to relay, it will last a long time. he also tells you how to plumb up the electric valves if thats the way you run. remember to have airflow run in the direction of the arrow on the valve. my electric valves always behaved a little better with a little backpressure on the dump valve, so maybe figure running a simple barb fitting and some water hose on the dump outlet. with out it you might notice the valves dumping randomly.

I would run the water traps after the tank, before the tank they catch a little water but not all of it, and the goal is to keep water out of the valves. think of your home compressor system, water trap goes on the outlet, not between the tank and compressor.
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