Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard
Looking good. Maybe delete the zero rate blocks from the rear instead? Always disliked blocks on the front, even if connected to the leafs. They increase wrap and hop under power and add negative caster to the front axle under heavy braking.
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Those are good points. I'll see how it goes once i get it all completely back together. I may buy 6” springs for the front down the road if I don’t do zero rates. I’m not a really huge fan of them up front either. I want to see how it looks with the 35’s under it before I get too much more crazy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher
Looking good Tyler! I still prefer the rear wheel more centered in the wheel well than OEM. Longhorns are even worse than K trucks and it drives me nuts.  I've got a truck I want to put a 8" lift on and I'm trying to leave the big hub D44 but I have all the stuff to put a D60 in it with cross over steering. I know it won't stop there. Haha |
I think down the road I’m going to get the drive shaft lengthened a bit (it’s really close to not being long enough at 5” lift in the rear) and move it back to the centered position. The biggest reason I moved it back was certainly the drive shaft. I agree they do look a lot better that way. I’m in to see you build one with an 8” lift and a crossover 60! It definitely never stops there.
I bled the brakes a little more yesterday and added oil to the front axle today. It still stops great but I still may swap to a K30 master cylinder for a better pedal feel. I ran it around in 4x4 and everything works great. When I bought this truck someone had removed the double cardan yoke and u joint from the front driveshaft. I’m definitely going to round up the parts to re-install them. I’ll never be able to run at any real amount of speed in 4wd with the angles it’s running right now. But for just driving around the house and crawling in the hills it’ll be fine.