[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

Kyle I applaud your persistence ! Keep at it ! Lots of people will learn from your experience..Jack

Thank you. I plan to get this fixed and report back my findings! Fingers crossed.

Originally Posted by MikeB

If air is somehow creeping into the system (which I doubt), that means you would have a fluid leak. Have you seen signs of that anywhere?

FYI, if you are pulling fluid trough the bleeder valves using a vacuum pump like a MityVac, you will almost always see bubbles from air creeping in between the hose and bleeder valve.

I verified at each fitting that there is no leak, but I have seen a lot of documentation for the bores of the wheel cylinders to pull air and foul that section of line with air. I believe it was Stocker on this board who had a similar issue, and he took it to a shop and they replaced the wheel cylinders in the rear and it was solved. Plus I am thinking starting with wheel cylinders will be the most inexpensive option at this point - next would be MC.

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

What are the full specs for the kit, or webpage where it is sold?

This is a CPP front brake disc conversion kit, Inline Tube prebent lines, stock rear drums and a kit from Tom's Classic's for the booster/MC/PV

Originally Posted by 72SB

It is not uncommon to pull air from bleeder nipples being loosened to bleed at the threads. A thin coat of silicone on the bleeder nipple threads prevents this. Do not use Teflon tape.

Ive tried the silicon before with not a ton of luck, but I use a small run of teflon tape on the threads (not the tapered seal and not on line fittings) as some of the folks at Hagerty suggested. Why I did this, is because when I loosen the bleeder I can wiggle it some and Im certain air is coming through when bleeding. With a small layer of teflon, no deflection is noted.

Originally Posted by RichardJ

He stated that he is using the speed bleeders. They come with a thread coating, although this coating could have deteriorated. A common problem with vacuum bleeding is sucking air past the bleeder threads unless the threads are wrapped.
He also said he has tried a pressure bleater.

I could see a problem with manual bleeding, if debris is holding the Speed Bleeder Valve open and the valve is not closed, each time the pedal is withdrawn. This wouldn't affect vacuum or pressure bleeding.

My only conclusion from all of the above postings is that the Primary Section of the MC has failed.

I have limited knowledge of MC operation in all honesty - would the primary section effect the rear brakes? Rear bowl is rear brakes, front bowl is front brakes. My front brakes are perfect and have zero bubbles.

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

You could always let it gravity bleed :shrug:

I have tried this as well. Still no dice unfortunately.