I have been getting several requests/demands for an update, so here it goes. I have been working on the wiring lately and it is about as exciting as watching paint drying on grass that is growing. That, and, I make very slow progress so taking pics just drags out the process, but I did take a few, so here they are:
I guess I should give a bit of background on how I wire my vehicles. I use factory terminals, connectors, crimping tools, wire (thermal cross-linked polyethylene jacketed) and the factory high-temp loom when I build a harness. When I am done I require it to have the appearance, durability, longevity, and servicability of a factory wiring harness. This is no easy feat. All of the equipment listed is expensive and most is not readily available. If I run out of loom for example, I can not run down to the local parts store and pick some up. Some terminals and even a couple connectors are available, but that is about it. I started this strange obsession years ago when I put an injected 5.7L in my '71 Nova. I wanted to replace the engine control harness due to age, but I couldn't bring myself to pay the rediculous amount of money that they cost, just to cut it up and throw most of it away. At that point I started accumulating the factory terminals and connectors. Somewhere along the way I felt rich and bought three factory crimping tools for about $125.00 each. As time went by, I found more and more terminals and now I have three bin drawers full (way over-stuffed would be a much more accurate term) of the oe terminals with several boxes of factory connectors both Weather Pack and non-sealed (56 &59 series). I have one bin drawer of typical generic terminals (mostly ring terminals) that rarely get used. When I do use them, I pull the plastic off the end, then crimp, solder and apply heat shrink to seal them.
Ok, now that boredom has completely set-in, here is a few pics.
I needed a different temp switch for the cold start timing advance, so I ordered one from Cummins. The switch was different than the one that I had, so it required the use of a new harness. It wasn't terribly priced (about $25.00).
The problem is I was going to have to cut up half of it to make it work with my setup. I did some checking with my suppliers and found the correct connector body. The connector body uses pull-to-seat terminals (put the wire through the connector body, crimp the terminal on the wire then pull it back into the connector to lock the terminal in place) and I was out of this particular series (fairly common--just forgot to re-order when I used the last one). If I cut up the Cummins harness, I still needed the terminals because I do not splice wires. I remove the terminal from the connector and run my own wire into it. I got the connector body and a pack of 20 terminals for about $7.00.
Being this motor was originally in a Dodge, there were several Dodge connectors on it. I was able to convert all but one to GM connectors. The only one that I could not convert was the connector for the fuel heater. Refusing to splice wires, I searched for and found some oe Dodge terminals.
The story goes on and on, but here is a pic of the fan relays and fuses. I had a time figuring out a place to put them, so I put them on the inside of the fender next to the battery. It keeps them out of the way, but yet they can still be accessed if necessary. The jumbled mess of wire in the core support was not finished yet.
I decided to replace the lift pump with a better unit. It looks like the one off of a P-pump motor, but it is different--to the tune of double the money :eek1:. The P-pump lift pump puts out too much pressure to use on my motor. This new pump keeps pressure and volume up at high engine loads where the original design falters.
So there you have it. Not much to look at, but it sure is nice to have most of it done. I have to take a couple pics of a few things in the interior that I did. With this stuff done, I'm very close to starting functional electrical tests.