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cornerstone · 09-15-2019, 06:16 PM

Cool, thanks for the detailed answer. I shortened my longbed and still have the original 2 pc. shafts that are in excellent condition. I am under the impression that I have to go with a single pc. shaft, but I may be wrong. I've heard guys say a 2 pc. shaft would be the better choice, but I don't know if that is possible on a shorty. The extra length issue is easily solvable, but since I converted over to a 6L80E, the front yoke is different. I stopped by a local shop in Ft.Worth a while back and he said to get all the weight on the truck before I tackle the driveshaft, that makes sense. I bought a set of 2" aluminum lowering blocks and was planning on modifying them with some 60 grit on a belt sander, instead of using shims to get my pinion angle correct.
Any thoughts?

09-15-2019, 06:16 PM	#345
cornerstone Registered User Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Azle,Texas Posts: 2,248	Re: TA_C10: Stage 1 Cool, thanks for the detailed answer. I shortened my longbed and still have the original 2 pc. shafts that are in excellent condition. I am under the impression that I have to go with a single pc. shaft, but I may be wrong. I've heard guys say a 2 pc. shaft would be the better choice, but I don't know if that is possible on a shorty. The extra length issue is easily solvable, but since I converted over to a 6L80E, the front yoke is different. I stopped by a local shop in Ft.Worth a while back and he said to get all the weight on the truck before I tackle the driveshaft, that makes sense. I bought a set of 2" aluminum lowering blocks and was planning on modifying them with some 60 grit on a belt sander, instead of using shims to get my pinion angle correct. Any thoughts? __________________ Brian 1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod.