Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv D
LOL, no sir,, I worded that about as poorly as I possibly could have (damn vicodine)
I think I still have the bolt I pulled out of a 1ton van yoke / TH400.
What I was 'trying to say',,, the bolt 'looked' like a.....ohhh....... a body bolt! with the washer integral and part of the bolt head. But the hex was a bit thin, and the corners were rounded off on the top (like a grade 8 stove bolt )
I think it was thin to make sure the bolt didn't contact the U-joint at high angles or something. .. man that still sounds like a bunch of incoherent babble don't it.. ONE picture,, LOL It would explain everything. I'll look around the shop later today and see if I can find the thing. I know it's out there somewhere.
I guess all in all if the u-joint doesn't contact the bolt / washer you have,, "it's all good!"
I misinterpreted force needed in the 'used a puller'. I have a old cheep body slide hammer I stick through the u-bolt hole and gently tap the yoke off if it's tight,,, and a rubber hammer to put it back on. Using a puller would be much smarter and gentler on the bushings,, your just to nice to your trans LOL.
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LOL, OK, now I get it. All you had to say was a body bolt (or a flanged bolt).
Nope, mine is a Spicer yoke with a separate washer and bolt, but the washer appears to be machined for this purpose because of the lip on it, the thickness of it, and recess in the yoke. I forgot to mention this is a 1-ton chassis, not sure if that makes a difference. The original bolt had a slim, rounded head on it. So again, that looks like the right bolt. It came off of the TH400 and had no clearance problems. I would much rather have the aforementioned flanged bolt though. That seems better.
As for hammering the yoke, I put quite a bit of $$$$ into this drivetrain and usually make beatings with a hammer the last resort after trying other methods of force. I'm a fan of "work smarter, not harder."