@GreenMonster -
I picked up a dozen 2" SS carriage bolts that fit the captured nuts. Ran them through all the nuts in the top and chased any that needed it. Then cut the heads off of the nuts and ground a taper on one end of each. This is the real benefit, being able to easily access each nut while the top is in the air and being able to thread them properly.
(In retrospect, I'm not sure that grinding the taper on each was necessary. The thought process being it would allow the bolts to find the holes more easily with a little play to get them started.)
I installed a bolt into each nut in the top with loctite. I used blue, but would probably use red if I did it again. All of them held, except for one. I think my threads weren't perfect from the grinding process on that one and the nut ended up turning the bolt. Still worked, but better to make sure your threads are tip top, and red loctite would help. Come spring, we'll see if any of the bolts come out when removing the nuts. Even if they do, it'll be easy enough to reinstall them.
On my lift set up, the top sits on 2x4's which I lower on to the bed rails. Then get inside and lift the top with my back while I, or a helper, removes the 2x4's. Then gently lower the top into the holes.
FWIW, this is the lift set up I wish I had the tools to make, a much slicker system and would work with a roll bar.
From BobbyK:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=398105
I then worked from the back to the front adding a washer, lock washer and a nut to each bolt.
I would say it easily cut the time frame down below half of the previous method, and if I remember correctly, I'm not sure there was even one cuss word involved. The old way involved several.
Let me know if that explains it sufficiently, or if you were looking for anything else specific.