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I have a couple questions on your install.
- Once you have the shafts installed, did you not find it necessary to install a bolt through the two shafts to rebound them?
- Because you went from a M8 to 1/4” hardware did you not have to file down any of the shafts?
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I was asked this question via PM so I thought I would share this info in case anyone alse wondered.... I drilled through the outer portion of the collapsible shaft (Yellow circle). When the inner portion (gear box end) slides inside, the holes are centered on the shaft where it's notched by the manufacturer & where the binding agent originally went (Yellow lines). If I choose to bind them w/a glue, this is where it would happen. I'll give it more miles before making that decision.
I also have considered incorporating a set-screw arrangement to keep the shaft halves more solid while still allowing the ability to collapse upon impact. If you did a set screw, you would want it closer to the end of the outer shaft (White circle & X). That way upon impact, the inner shaft can still slide inside the outer w/o that notched area coming into contact.
I'll likely do one method
or the other for re-binding the 2 halves if I feel it necessary. The set-screw is the better/easier choice for future removal for whatever reason as it can simply be unscrewed & the 2 halves will easily slide apart vs. having to re-melt glue to get them apart.
I did use the smaller hardware to eliminate the need to file the gear-box & column end stubs down (to allow the hardware to easily slide across the stub). The smaller threaded end of the SAE SS hardware easily passed through the metric tapped portion of the clamps. The slightly fatter shank of the SAE hardware helped fill the notch area @ the gear box end despite being a smaller diameter bolt (I couldn't pull the gear-box side of the shaft off by hand w/the 1/4" hardware loosely in place). It's possible you could force it off if you tried hard enough I suppose. Hopefully this makes sense.