[HO455]

I had put the battery on the charger during the conversion so it would be ready to go, and there were also several warnings with the new alternator saying DAMAGE WILL RESULT UNLESS BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED. I did continuity checks with an ohm meter before hooking the battery leads up. I was looking for grounded wires and crossed conductors. After hooking the positive leads on the battery up I put a hand held amp meter inline with the negative lead and its post. Zero amps. Everything thing checked out.
I put the negative lead on the battery but I didn't tighten it down just in case things went horribly awry and I needed disconnect the power quickly and as part of this precaution I also wore gloves during start up.
I put my multimeter on DC volts and set it so I could see it from the front seat. Voltage was 13.3. A slight drop occurred when I turned the key on as the fuel pump and compressor came on as expected. The engine fired right up and voltage went to 14.4. A quick check under the hood with an infrared temp gun showed no hot spots in the wiring or alternator. I turned everything in the truck on and the voltage never changed more than a tenth of a volt from idle to 5000 RPM.
The only issue at this point is the ampmeter just barely moves but prior to this it only ever seemed to move to the change side and back to zero. Which may have had to do with the incorrect way I had hooked up the power for the compressor, and the head light relays. I will look into the dash wiring and guage first. There was some kind of problem with it in the past since the fuse holder was removed from the harness.
On the way back from my sisters house I turned the lights on and wow the dash lights are brighter. With the old set up they started out kind of dim after starting the truck and got better as you drove.