Quote:
Originally Posted by 72SB
The position of front line is not the problem.
Your PV is sensing a change which triggers the switch. Whatever direction it moves, that part (front or back) has a leak you need to find
...or the PV is bad which is rare but given source of replacement parts used in these kits, way more possible now.
Power brake disc typically use a 1 1/8" bore MC but that would not affect what PV is doing. larger bore just means less pedal stroke as the booster assist does not need the stroke a manual setup needs.
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I have checked all fittings - no leaks. Verified visually and with a clean rag to see if theres even the smallest seepage. I am leaning towards a bad PV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dashman
In my opinion the front brake line coming off the combination valve upwards shouldn't matter because it was designed that way for two front brake lines. However, typically when using a single line with a tee, others (factory included?) used the bottom port and plugged the top. I don't think it will matter.
Someone else, on this forum, stated that their switch was too sensitive. Are you seeing a lot of movement of the shuttle valve? Having removed the switch, how much movement can it have before the light turns on?
How do you know that the proportioning valve isn't stuck in the open position? It's function is too reduce the pressure to the rear, right? What would the shuttle valve do, if the proportioning valve wasn't doing its function? I think it would slide rearward a bit. You could replace just the proportioning valve, and see if it makes a difference. Then you could disassemble the first proportioning valve to see if there was a problem.
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Ill need to visually see how much it moves, it moves enough to trigger but I can still manually recenter with a pick, moving the shuttle back to neutral. Its somewhat "U" shaped, and I can grab the edge of the U and pull it back, if that makes any sense.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardJ
>>proper adjustment with a brake drum/shoe caliper tool <<
If you are talking about a "resetting tool" , the shoes are probably still too far away from the drums.
You should adjust until the shoes drag and then step on the brake pedal to center the shoes. You have to readjust tighter, press on the brake and check for drag again. The finish adjustment should allow you to hear some drag, but not necessarily feel any resistance when you turn the drum.
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The tool I am refering to is a tool made by Blue Point, its a giant caliper that you set inside the drum to set the diameter, and then hold over the shoes and adjust until they lightly touch. I dont believe the rear shoes are an issue; theyre adjusted to the proper drag currently and the light is still persisting after resetting the PV and verifying it is in neutral and the light is off until the pedal is pressed.