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**MikeB** · 04-04-2020, 05:42 PM

My 82 had a least a couple poor connections in the bulkhead connectors. I cleaned them with a burnishing tool and contact cleaner, but still had intermittent problems that I could fix by tapping the bulkhead connector. Also, my fuse panel had some corroded contacts due to water leaks near it.

I couldn't swing the $$ for a "exact fit" harness kit, so bought a very nice generic kit by American Autowire. It uses cross-linked wire, with most (if not all) wires one gauge larger than stock. They even included a charging kit with a maxi-fuse holder and 6 gauge wires! But it did require a ton of work, several modifications, and LOTS of prior experience to get it installed. I had wired a 66 pickup, a 55 Chevy car, and a 37 Ford hot rod, and this was the most challenging because of things like the wiper/washer connectors and instrument panel connector.

But it works great. Voltage drop from the battery to headlights and ignition is around 0.1 volts, whereas before it was a 1.0-1.5 volts! Headlights are so much brighter that I scrapped the idea of using relays. Also, My HEI obviously has more current to the coil. Also, the dash, brake, and tail lights are brighter.

04-04-2020, 05:42 PM	#7
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,425	Re: Engine wiring harness vendors My 82 had a least a couple poor connections in the bulkhead connectors. I cleaned them with a burnishing tool and contact cleaner, but still had intermittent problems that I could fix by tapping the bulkhead connector. Also, my fuse panel had some corroded contacts due to water leaks near it. I couldn't swing the $$ for a "exact fit" harness kit, so bought a very nice generic kit by American Autowire. It uses cross-linked wire, with most (if not all) wires one gauge larger than stock. They even included a charging kit with a maxi-fuse holder and 6 gauge wires! But it did require a ton of work, several modifications, and LOTS of prior experience to get it installed. I had wired a 66 pickup, a 55 Chevy car, and a 37 Ford hot rod, and this was the most challenging because of things like the wiper/washer connectors and instrument panel connector. But it works great. Voltage drop from the battery to headlights and ignition is around 0.1 volts, whereas before it was a 1.0-1.5 volts! Headlights are so much brighter that I scrapped the idea of using relays. Also, My HEI obviously has more current to the coil. Also, the dash, brake, and tail lights are brighter. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 34 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 23 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 04-04-2020 at 05:50 PM.