flare nut wrenches FTW! anything from Craftsman to Snap-on will work just fine for your needs posted above..
flare nut wrenches engage more B nut surface area and have much less tendency to round the corners..
these are especially handy for breaking loose older corroded, rusty, frozen brake line tubing and hose fittings..
typical AN flare fittings in the lower pressure ranges of automotive use generally require very little torque for an effective seal..
this is the general purpose of those short handled 'fancy' AN wrenches, prevent over torquing
over torquing flare fittings stretches and distorts the cone and seat and can create weak joints, smearing, cracks, and subsequently leaks..
if you suspect that you may have already over torqued any of your fittings, I recommend replacing them now and minimize trouble later..
properly sized, fitted, and torqued, AN style fittings should last a lifetime even with regular assembling/disassembling..
here's a typical torque chart for AN fittings,
Torque Specs for AN Fittings
*note - these torque values are in
inch pounds and for reference on larger sizes, divide by 12 for foot pounds..
Convert Inch-pounds Force to Foot-pounds Force
example, -6 aluminum torque range is 110-130 in lb or 12 ft lb which ain't much..
there are readily available flare nut sockets for torquing B nuts.. torque values then are corrected depending on the offset..
https://www.engineersedge.com/manufa...e_wrench_1.htm
I have these in my tool box, Snap-on, Armstrong, and Bonney.. the home-made job on the end is for leading edge slat actuators on 737s
if you don't have a practical measured torque method or calibrated elbow, the FFFT method is generally acceptable..
good luck!